The Val di Noto Cycle Route towards Pantalica
In south-eastern Sicily, between Siracusa and Ragusa, secondary roads cut through a countryside of dry-stone walls all the way to the rock-cut necropolis of Pantalica. A rural Baroque landscape rideable even in winter, far from the crowded beaches and the mass tours.
Foto: Pitero Columba (CC BY-SA 2.0) — Wikimedia Commons
South-eastern Sicily is famous for its Baroque cities, but almost everyone experiences it by car, from one square to another, skipping entirely the countryside that holds them together. It is right there, on the secondary roads among dry-stone walls, carob trees and limestone plateaus, that a little-visited world hides: a rural Baroque landscape made of farmsteads, incised valleys and silence, ideal to discover by bicycle and rideable even in the months that are dead elsewhere.
The itinerary ties together the triangle of the Val di Noto, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its wilder hinterland. You can set off from Siracusa and its surroundings, or use the Baroque centres of the Iblean plateau as bases. The stages not to miss are the cities rebuilt after the earthquake of 1693: Noto with its stage set of golden stone, Modica lying in its valley, Ragusa Ibla clinging to its rocky spur, and the smaller villages such as Palazzolo Acreide, an ancient Greek colony with its ruins and its churches. Between one and the other run not the major roads but farm tracks and lightly trafficked provincial roads that cross an orderly countryside of dry-stone walls, one of the most recognisable landscapes on the island.
Pantalica
The high point of the journey is Pantalica, the great rock-cut necropolis carved into the walls of a canyon where the river Anapo has incised the limestone. Thousands of little grotto tombs, hewn from the Bronze Age onwards, dot the cliffs in a landscape that blends archaeology and nature. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and yet it stays extraordinarily quiet: you reach it on narrow roads and the real exploration happens on foot, leaving the bike and walking along the old track of the disused railway that climbs the Anapo valley. The stop at Pantalica is worth the journey on its own.
Terrain and difficulty
On a technical level, it is a route on low-traffic secondary tarmac, with the odd dirt connection towards the natural areas. A touring bike or a gravel bike is perfect. The terrain is not plain: the Iblean plateau is a succession of valleys and ridges, so you face continuous ups and downs and the odd decisive climb to get out of the valleys where the historic centres nestle, such as the ascent from Modica or the approach to Ragusa Ibla. The overall effort is moderate: there are none of the great mountain climbs, but nor are there long restful stretches.
To get there, the reference points are Siracusa and Ragusa, both reachable by train and connected to the main road network; from there you head off into the minor roads. It is best to travel in stages, using the Baroque villages as bases for the night, so as to alternate riding and unhurried visits.
When to go
The great advantage of this area is its wide seasonality. The best time runs from spring, from March, through to late autumn, into November. In spring the Iblean countryside is green and in bloom and the climate mild; in autumn the light is golden and the temperatures stay pleasant well beyond the end of the tourist season. Precisely because you don't come here for the sea, you can pedal in the shoulder months and even on the fine winter days, when the Baroque cities empty out and the country roads are all yours. High summer, on the other hand, brings intense heat on the arid plateau and is best avoided.
Practical tips
A practical tip: set off in the early hours of the morning and arrange your visits to the historic centres for the afternoon or evening, when the Baroque stone lights up with the raking light and it is the finest moment to cross Noto or Ragusa Ibla. Carry water supplies on the more isolated stretches of the plateau and take the time to taste the local products, from Modica chocolate to Iblean cheeses: this is a countryside best savoured by stopping rather than rushing.
Practical guides
Practical info
When is the best time to visit The Val di Noto Cycle Route towards Pantalica?
The recommended time is March and November, when it is less crowded.
Where is The Val di Noto Cycle Route towards Pantalica?
The Val di Noto Cycle Route towards Pantalica is located in South-eastern Sicily, Siracusa-Ragusa.
