Castello Eurialo: Greek moats and tunnels above Siracusa

Just a few kilometres from the tourist heart of Siracusa, while Ortigia overflows with visitors, the Epipoli plateau stays silent. Here, near the hamlet of Belvedere, spreads the Castello di Eurialo: not a medieval castle, but a vast piece of Greek military engineering, among the largest and best preserved to have survived anywhere in the Mediterranean.

A war machine

The fortress was built under Dionysius I, tyrant of Siracusa, in the Classical age, as the linchpin of the long system of walls that ringed the city. It was never a residence: it was a war machine. The complex included deep moats hewn into the rock, tower bases, courtyards and a maze of underground galleries and passageways that let the garrison move under cover and take besiegers by surprise. According to the sources, in its long history it was never taken by force.

Among the ruins

Walking among these remains today has something disorienting about it. You descend into the moats, cross the passages cut into the stone, lay a hand on blocks squared off twenty-five centuries ago. Often there is no one else: only the wind of the plateau, the olive trees and, in the distance, the outline of the coast and the sea the sentries once watched over.

Visiting

That is precisely its strength for anyone seeking a different kind of trip. A quarter of an hour from the centre, for a ticket of just a few euros, you can visit a monument of European importance in near solitude. It is worth wearing comfortable shoes for the uneven stretches, bringing water and a hat, and setting aside at least an hour for the visit. The light of early morning or late afternoon turns the stones golden and cools the climb.

A respectful trip

Adding Eurialo to your itinerary also means easing the pressure on Ortigia and spreading travellers out across the territory. You leave something for the economy of a hamlet off the main flows, and you discover a page of history that most people overlook. A concrete way to visit Siracusa with respect, choosing silent wonder over the queue.

Related guides: Sicily off the beaten track: hidden villages and destinations far from the crowds · Little-known archaeological sites in Italy: a guide to places off the route · Little-known castles of Italy: fortresses and manors far from mass tourism.

Getting there

Castello Eurialo dominates the height of Epipoli, in the hamlet of Belvedere behind Siracusa. The most convenient way to reach it is by car: you climb towards the Belvedere district along Viale Epipoli and follow the signs for the castle, which is about fifteen minutes from the centre. Public transport connections are limited, with a few urban lines running to Belvedere. The reference station and airport are those of Siracusa and Catania-Fontanarossa.