Instead of Amsterdam: Utrecht, the Canals with Cellar Terraces Where You Drink Above the Water

Utrecht is the fourth-largest city in the Netherlands, but in terms of quality of life it ranks first. Its canals have a unique feature: they are split across two levels, with the lower quays — the werfkelders — transformed into cafés, restaurants and terraces where you drink with your feet almost touching the water. It is an experience that does not exist in Amsterdam.

The Oudegracht — the main canal — runs through the historic centre like a green and blue spine. On the upper quays you stroll among shops and bookshops; on the lower ones you eat, drink and watch the world go by at water level. In summer you can rent canoes and pedal boats and experience the city from the water.

The Domtoren — the Cathedral tower — is the tallest in the Netherlands at one hundred and twelve metres. You climb on foot (465 steps) and from the top you can see the entire Netherlands as far as Amsterdam. Its peculiarity is that the tower is detached from the church: the catastrophe of 1674 brought down the nave, and since then the tower has stood alone like a lighthouse in the middle of the city.

Museum Speelklok holds one of the most unusual collections in Europe: automatic musical instruments from the Middle Ages to the present day — carillons, pianolas, barrel organs — all in working order and played during the guided tour. The Centraal Museum houses the largest collection of works by Rietveld, the architect and designer of the De Stijl movement.

Utrecht is also the most cycle-friendly city in the Netherlands (a remarkable distinction), and has the world's largest bicycle parking facility at the central station: twelve thousand spaces spread across three levels. Here, the bike is not folklore — it is the primary means of transport.

The gastronomic scene reflects the city's diversity: Surinamese, Indonesian, Turkish and Moroccan restaurants alternate with traditional Dutch cafés. The Saturday market in the square by the Cathedral is one of the largest in the country. Prices are decidedly lower than Amsterdam, especially for accommodation.

Utrecht is reached from Amsterdam in twenty-seven minutes by train (the busiest line in the Netherlands: every five minutes), from Rotterdam in forty. Schiphol airport is half an hour away. It is where the Dutch go when they want a real city.