Het Twiske, the peat "jungle" 15 minutes from Amsterdam Centraal

Between the municipalities of Oostzaan and Landsmeer, north of Amsterdam, lies a reserve that its own residents have nicknamed "de Rimboe", the jungle. Het Twiske is a 650-hectare area within the peatland landscape of Laag Holland, made up of shallow lakes, tall reed beds and small islands linked by trails. The playful name comes from its history: in the 1930s an attempt was made to reclaim this marsh for horticulture, but the ground proved unsuitable and the project failed. For decades the area was left abandoned and wild, hence the nickname.

How it came to be

Its present-day shape is the offspring of a construction site. In the 1960s, building the Coen tunnel (the Coentunnel) required enormous amounts of sand, and it was found right here, beneath the peat and clay of this area: huge quantities were dug out, and from the excavation the large Stootersplas lake was born. Since demand for green space was growing around Amsterdam, Purmerend and Zaandam, in 1972 the site was turned into a recreational area to a design by landscape architect Mariske Pemmelaar-Groot. In 2013 Het Twiske joined the European Natura 2000 network, together with the wetlands of Ilperveld, Oostzanerveld and Varkensland, thanks to the presence of rare birds such as the wigeon and the bittern.

Wildlife and beaches

About a third of the surface is water, which explains the seven small beaches scattered along the shores, used for swimming, windsurfing or simply sitting. But the most memorable part is the wildlife you encounter as you walk. Along the paths, semi-free Scottish Highland cattle graze, the ones with reddish coats and long horns, alongside Konik horses and fallow deer; you can find yourself face to face with them, with no fences in between. They gather mostly in the quieter zones such as De Belt and De Bokken, where marsh orchids also grow. Among the reeds you can spot herons, coots and countless waterbirds, especially in the early morning.

Getting there

The most surprising thing is how close it is to the centre. From Amsterdam's Centraal station, free ferries run day and night, crossing the IJ to Amsterdam-Noord in just a few minutes. From there, bus 392 (Connexxion) links Amsterdam and Zaandam to the reserve: get off at the Kolksloot stop, in front of the main entrance on the Oostzaan side, or at De Kunstgreep, near the little harbour and the management office. Alternatively, bus 125 (EBS), running from Buikslotermeerplein towards Purmerend, skirts the eastern side. For up-to-date timetables it's worth checking 9292ov.nl before setting off.

The most beloved way to get there, though, is by bike. Amsterdam's cycle paths connect directly to those inside the park: you can rent a bicycle near Centraal, hop on the ferry and pedal all the way to the wetlands. Those coming by car take the Oostzaan/Het Twiske exit off the A8 (Amsterdam-Zaanstad); parking is paid (around 3.50 euros for the first three hours, 6 euros for the daily rate).

When to go

Het Twiske remains almost unknown to international visitors, who from Noord head straight for the Zaanse Schans or the museums. In the non-summer months, on a weekday, it's easy to walk the trails and cross paths with more Highland cattle than people. The best times are late spring, when the orchids bloom and the birds nest, and early autumn, with the low light over the reeds. In summer, on the other hand, the beaches fill up with Dutch visitors at the weekend: better to go first thing in the morning.