The Sila Parks Cycle Route among the lakes

To say Calabria and think of mountains seems a contradiction, and yet the Sila is one of the most fascinating plateaus in Italy, a world apart made of gigantic pines, mountain lakes and cool air even in high summer. While down on the coast people crowd together under the sun, up here, at high altitude, you pedal in a jersey and light jacket among deep woods and silences that seem impossible in such a maritime region. This is the great surprise of the Sila Parks Cycle Route: a green, wooded, cool Calabria that very few people know.

The lakes of the Sila

The heart of this landscape are the lakes of the Sila. Among the best known is Lake Arvo, near Lorica, and then Lake Ampollino, set among the woods just a short way from one another. They are high-altitude bodies of water, surrounded by dense pine forests, with scenic roads that follow their shores and offer continuous glimpses. Lorica, on the banks of the Arvo, is one of the most convenient bases to set off from, immersed in the Sila National Park. From here you pedal into an almost alpine environment, among the famous Giants of the Sila, the enormous centuries-old laricio pines that soar in the reserve and that truly leave you breathless.

The area is part of the Sila Parks Cycle Route of Calabria, the itinerary that links the region's great mountain parks by crossing the Sila itself. The Sila section moves between Lorica, the two lakes and the surrounding woods, touching viewpoints and clearings where it is not rare to spot the park's wildlife. These are low-traffic mountain roads, immersed in greenery, where the dominant sound is the wind among the pines.

At high altitude

You must reckon with the fact that we are at high altitude, and this means two things: thinner air and significant elevation gain. The roads rise and fall following the lie of the plateau, and reaching the lakes or crossing the passes calls for ready legs and a good dose of training. The surface is mostly paved on quiet roads, but the effort is that typical of the mountains, with long climbs alternating with fast descents. Pedal assist here makes the difference for those who want to enjoy the views without suffering too much. Those who prefer a quieter approach can concentrate on the flat stretches along the lake shores, where the elevation is more forgiving.

To get there, the Sila is reached by climbing up from the towns of the coast or the interior, such as Cosenza, along the roads that scale the plateau. Lorica and the centres around the lakes are the ideal bases for those who want to stay overnight at altitude and have the routes within pedalling reach.

When to go

The best time is summer, from June to September: it is precisely in the hot months that the Sila gives its best, because it offers coolness and shade when the rest of Calabria is gasping. While everyone rushes to the sea, the plateau stays surprisingly quiet, and pedalling among the lakes in high summer means ideal temperatures and lightly used roads. In spring and autumn the days can already be cold at altitude, so the heart of the warm season remains the best window for those who want to make the most of the mountain climate.

Practical tips

A practical tip: even in summer never set off without a windproof jacket and something warm, because at altitude the temperature drops rapidly, especially in the early morning and late afternoon, and afternoon thunderstorms are not rare. Make the most of the lake shores for a break with a view, and if you have time devote a walk to the Giants of the Sila: seeing them up close, leaving the bike, is an experience that stays with you. Carry water and provisions, because between one inhabited spot and the next the woods are vast and the services sparse.