Calabria Railway: The Little Train That Climbs to the Sila Through Forests of Black Pine
From Cosenza to San Giovanni in Fiore on narrow-gauge rails: a forgotten journey across the greenest, most solitary plateau of southern Italy.
Most travellers arriving in Calabria do not know it exists. Yet the railway connecting Cosenza to the Sila plateau — with branches to Camigliatello Silano and San Giovanni in Fiore — is one of the oldest narrow-gauge lines in southern Italy, inaugurated between 1913 and 1931 to carry timber from the Sila forests down to the coast. Today it is a journey through time and nature, run by Ferrovie della Calabria (FCal), almost ignored by mainstream tourism.
The climb to the plateau
The train leaves Cosenza Vaglio Lise and begins climbing almost at once. Within a few kilometres it leaves the city behind and winds through chestnut groves and pine forests. At Camigliatello Silano — a station at 1,270 metres, one of the highest points on the Calabrian rail network — the landscape already looks like a Nordic plateau: black pines fragrant with resin, silent lakes, snow from November to April. Anyone who gets off here in winter finds an almost embarrassing silence, broken only by the wind in the treetops.
San Giovanni in Fiore and the legacy of Joachim of Flora
The terminus of the main route is San Giovanni in Fiore, the highest town in Calabria at nearly 1,000 metres. Here, in the twelfth century, Joachim of Flora was born — the Calabrian mystic who so fascinated Dante that he placed him in Paradise. The Florensian abbey he founded is still visitable in the old town, alongside the textile-traditions museum: the city was famous for its brocades, the hand-operated fabrics that women produced on wooden looms still preserved today.
Timetables and practical tips
Services are limited — usually three or four a day in each direction — and schedules change with the season. It is essential to check the Ferrovie della Calabria website (fccalabria.it) before setting out. The Cosenza to San Giovanni in Fiore ticket costs less than 5 euros. The journey takes about two hours. The best months are June, when the Sila is green and in flower, and October, when the beeches turn red. In winter snowfall is frequent and the landscape becomes fairy-tale-like, but services are further reduced.
Practical info
When is the best time to visit Calabria Railway?
The recommended time is May, June, July, September and October, when it is less crowded.
Is Calabria Railway crowded?
Calabria Railway is a almost deserted destination compared with the more touristy ones.
Where is Calabria Railway?
Calabria Railway is located in Sila.
