September in the South — When the Mediterranean Belongs to You Alone

September: the real beginning of summer in the South

For those who know southern Italy, September is not the end of summer but its finest moment. The sea is at its warmest (25–27°C), the beaches empty out after the back-to-school rush, prices drop sharply and the light becomes that golden Mediterranean glow that photographers and painters have chased for centuries. Between 20 and 28 degrees, with almost no rain: September in the South is Italy's worst-kept secret.

Costa dei Cedri (Calabria)

The Tyrrhenian coast of Calabria between Scalea and Praia a Mare is among the most beautiful and least-visited in Italy. In September the coves of Fiuzzi and San Nicola Arcella are deserted, the sea is transparent and the beach clubs lower their prices (sun lounger and umbrella from 10 euros). The island of Dino, reachable by boat (15 euros), hides spectacular blue grottoes. B&Bs along the coast cost from 35 euros a night. A must-try: candied citron, a unique local speciality.

Inner Salento Peninsula (Puglia)

Everyone knows the beaches of Salento, but inland Salento in September is a world of its own. Borghi like Specchia, Presicce-Acquarica and Tricase preserve underground olive presses, Baroque palaces and silent squares. Masserie offer bed and breakfast from 50 euros. The Negroamaro grape harvest is underway: many wineries open for tastings (from 10 euros). The nearest beach is always less than 20 minutes away.

Cilento (Campania)

The Cilento National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and in September reveals its best. Acciaroli, the borgo beloved by Hemingway, returns to its quiet; the ruins of Paestum (12 euros) are visited in the perfect light of late afternoon. Marina di Camerota offers coves reachable only by boat or on foot. A plate of menaica anchovies with lemon costs 10 euros and is worth a journey in itself. From Salerno: an hour and a half by car along the coast.

The white fig of Cilento

September is the month of the Cilento PDO white fig: sun-dried, stuffed with walnuts and covered in chocolate. You'll find it at the farmers' markets in Agropoli and Vallo della Lucania.

The Ionian coast of Basilicata

The coast between Metaponto and Policoro is the most undervalued in the South: long sandy beaches, pine forests, and behind them the Parco della Murgia Materana. In September it is ideal for families: shallow sea, warm but not scorching, accommodation at rock-bottom prices (from 30 euros). Tavole calde serve peperoni cruschi, pasta with peppers and lamb: authentic Lucanian cooking at 12–15 euros.

South-western Sardinia

While the Costa Smeralda makes headlines for its prices, the Sulcis-Iglesiente is the Sardinia that costs little. In September the beaches of Porto Pino, Masua and Cala Domestica are almost deserted. Pan di Zucchero, the largest sea stack in the Mediterranean, rises from the turquoise water. Iglesias, the mining city, has a surprising medieval historic centre. Flights to Cagliari in September: from 30 euros with low-cost carriers.

The Aeolian Islands (Sicily)

In September the Aeolian Islands breathe again after August's assault. Salina — the greenest island, the one from Il Postino — offers capers, Malvasia wine and volcanic trails. Filicudi and Alicudi are for those seeking total isolation. Hydrofoils from Milazzo run at full capacity (25–35 euros). Pensions on Salina in September cost from 60 euros including breakfast.

Practical tips for September in the South

• Book flights in advance: September has low prices but limited availability on some routes
• The sea stays warm until month's end, but bring a jacket for the evenings (temperatures drop to 18–20°C)
• Many beach clubs close on 15 September: check before you go
• It is harvest season and the month of autumn sagre: look up local events
• Inland villages are more interesting (and cooler) than overcrowded coastal resorts
• For getting around, hire a car: public transport in the South slows down after summer

September in the South is the privilege of those who know how to wait. The Mediterranean is never as beautiful as when everyone else has gone home.