Isola di Dino: Calabria's Grotto Without Capri Crowds

Isola di Dino is small — just over one kilometre long — and clearly visible from the coast of Praia a Mare in northern Calabria. Yet most tourists who frequent this stretch of coast never set foot on it, or only look at it from the seafront. Perhaps because there's no scheduled ferry, or because Calabria doesn't yet enjoy the reputation it deserves, or because Dino's Blue Grotto doesn't have a marketing agent as powerful as Capri's.

The Blue Grotto of Dino

The island's most celebrated cave competes — and holds its own — with Capri's. The light effect is the same: water filters through an underwater opening and refracts against the cavern walls, creating an intense, almost electric blue glow. The scale is smaller, but the advantage is that you enter by boat with only a few other visitors, without the thirty-minute queues that at Capri are accepted as part of the ritual. There are also the Grotta del Leone and other smaller cavities along the island's western coast, accessible with local boats rented in Praia a Mare.

The private island and its trails

Dino is largely privately owned, which limits inland access but not coastal exploration. Boat excursions circle the island's perimeter — about four kilometres — and offer sightings of raptors like the peregrine falcon nesting on the southern cliffs, and at certain times of year dolphins that follow the boats in the stretch of sea between the island and the Calabrian coast. The seabed is rich: the posidonia meadow surrounding the island is among the best preserved in the southern Tyrrhenian.

Base camp: Praia a Mare

Praia a Mare is a seaside town with a good range of accommodation and modest prices compared to more renowned coasts. Guided boat rentals for a tour of the island and the Blue Grotto start at about 15–20 euros per person, with boats departing several times a day. The best time is July and August for sea conditions, but June and September are far better for avoiding the beach crowds. 'Nduja from Spilinga and pecorino crotonese are within reach at any local trattoria: a full meal with Calabrian starters, pork ragù pasta, and a glass of Cirò won't exceed 18 euros.