Varzi: Where Salami and Medieval Stones Define a Hidden Corner of Lombardy

The Oltrepò you never expected

There is a corner of Lombardy that doesn't feel like Lombardy at all. The Oltrepò Pavese, with its hills tilting toward the Ligurian Apennines, has more in common with Piedmont and Emilia than with the Po plain. And at the heart of this anomalous territory, Varzi is the town that distills its very soul: a medieval borgo nestled in the Staffora valley, famous for its DOP salami, surrounded by hills thick with woodland and vineyards, moving at a pace that Milanese residents — less than a hundred kilometres away — would do well to discover.

What to see in Varzi

The medieval old town

The ancient core of Varzi is remarkably intact. Via del Mercato, with its low arcades and small shops, has preserved its medieval commercial layout. The tower-houses — Torre delle Streghe, Torre di Porta Sottana — punctuate the borgo's skyline. Sandstone buildings, inner courtyards with wooden balconies, vaulted passageways: a dense and evocative urban fabric best explored without a map, guided only by curiosity.

The Church of Santi Gervasio e Protasio

The parish church, Romanesque in origin with Baroque additions, holds works of considerable merit, including a canvas attributed to Cerano. The terracotta bell tower is the borgo's visual landmark from whichever direction you arrive.

The salumifici and the culture of salami

Salame di Varzi DOP is the emblematic product of the Oltrepò Pavese. Made from selected pork, garlic, red wine and pepper, aged in natural cellars, it has a soft and fragrant flavour that sets it apart from other Italian cured meats. Several producers offer visits and tastings — the best way to understand a territory through its flavours. Salumificio Vecchio Varzi and Azienda Lunghi are among the most well known.

Walks in the surrounding hills

From Varzi, footpaths fan out into the surrounding hills. The route to the Castello di Oramala (8 km) — once a residence of the Malaspina family, where tradition holds that the troubadour Aimeric de Peguilhan once stayed — makes for a half-day among forests and panoramas. The path up to Monte Penice (1,460 m) is more demanding but rewards with views stretching from the Po to the Alps.

What to eat and drink

• Salame di Varzi DOP — best tasted thickly hand-sliced, with rustic homemade bread
• Agnolotti — filled with braised meat, dressed with roast cooking juices
• Coppa and pancetta — all the cured meats of the Oltrepò are of exceptional quality
• Porcini mushrooms — abundant in autumn in the valley's woods
• Torta di mandorle — a rustic traditional almond cake
• Wines — Buttafuoco, Bonarda, Barbera dell'Oltrepò Pavese, to be discovered in the local cellars

La Locanda Buscone, just outside Varzi, is a historic address for the territory's cuisine, with menus that change with the seasons.

How to get there

Varzi lies about 70 km from Pavia and 90 km from Milan. By car from Milan, take the A7 to Casei Gerola, then the SP461 toward Voghera and from there the SP206 to Varzi (about 1 hour 30 minutes). Public transport is limited: buses from Voghera run infrequently. The borgo is compact and entirely walkable; free parking is available in the lower part of town.

When to go

April–June and September–October are the best months. Autumn is spectacular for the colours and the mushrooms. In summer, temperatures are milder than on the plain thanks to the altitude (416 m). The Fiera del Salame, at the end of April, is the event of the year: producers from across the Oltrepò, tastings, folk music.

An Oltrepò worth rediscovering

Varzi is the gateway to a territory that deserves a full weekend. Combine the borgo with the local wineries, the Castello di Oramala and perhaps a stop in Zavattarello, and you have an itinerary of taste and beauty that need envy no more celebrated destination. The Oltrepò Pavese is Lombardy's best-kept secret — enjoy it while it lasts.