Zavattarello: The Dal Verme Castle and the Silences of the Oltrepò Hills

A castle that commands the silence

In the deepest reaches of the Oltrepò Pavese, where the hills grow steep and the vineyards give way to chestnut woods, Zavattarello appears suddenly, its castle seeming to grow from the rock itself. The Castello Dal Verme, massive and square, has commanded the Tidone valley for nearly a thousand years, and the borgo at its feet is a cluster of stone houses where time flows with a slowness that has the flavour of privilege. Hardly anyone comes here: the hilly Oltrepò remains one of Lombardy's least visited areas, yet it offers landscapes, silences and flavours that need not envy more celebrated hills.

What to see

The Castello Dal Verme

The fortress, documented since the 11th century, was for centuries the centre of the Dal Verme fiefdom — a powerful Ghibelline family. Its present appearance is the result of successive reconstructions, the last following the bombardments of 1944. Today it houses a museum with sections dedicated to medieval life and the Partisan resistance in the area. The panoramic terrace offers a 360-degree view over the hills: on clear days the Po plain is visible and, beyond it, the silhouette of the Alps.

The borgo

Uphill lanes lead to the parish church of San Paolo, with a fine Romanesque portal. The sandstone houses, many tastefully restored, create photogenic corners at every turn. In the small square beneath the castle, a couple of bars with outdoor tables are the only signs of commercial activity: you come here to withdraw from the world, not to consume it.

The paths in the hills

Zavattarello is an excellent starting point for walks or mountain biking. The path down to Lago di Trebecco (artificial, open for swimming in summer) is an hour's stroll through woods and meadows. The circular route towards Romagnese crosses ancient chestnut groves and abandoned borgos that speak of a forgotten rural Italy.

What to eat and drink

The table of the Oltrepò Pavese is generous and little known outside the provincial borders.

• Salame di Varzi DOP — present everywhere as an antipasto, with its fine grain and gentle garlic fragrance
• Pisarei e fasö — breadcrumb gnocchi with a bean sauce, a Piacenza dish that is very much at home here
• Brasato al Buttafuoco — beef braised in the robust Oltrepò red wine
• Coppa piacentina and pancetta — the cured meats of the area are extraordinary
• Wines of the Oltrepò — sparkling Bonarda, Buttafuoco, Pinot Nero (the zone is Italy's largest producer of Pinot Nero)

Agriturismo La Torretta, on the hills just outside the borgo, offers a fixed-price menu using its own produce in a panoramic setting.

How to get there

Zavattarello lies about 80 km from Pavia and 90 km from Milan. The only practical way to reach it is by car: from the A21 (Turin–Piacenza) exit at Casteggio-Broni and follow the SP461 south for about 30 km of scenic curves. There are no useful public transport links. Parking is free at the entrance to the borgo.

When to go

April and May are perfect: the hills are a mosaic of greens and the temperatures are mild. September and October bring the colours of the harvest and the first mists that wrap the valleys. Summer is warm but breezy thanks to the altitude (around 500 metres). On the third Sunday of September, the Sagra del Tartufo animates the borgo with a market and tastings.

Who Zavattarello is for

This is not a destination for a monuments checklist. It is a place to come to in order to slow down, walk, eat well and look at the landscape. A weekend here — perhaps combined with Varzi and a few Oltrepò wineries — is an effective antidote to urban frenzy. And the castle, seen from the valley at sunset, is an image that stays with you.