Comacchio Lagoons: Salt Pans, Fishing Lodges, Flamingos

Just a few kilometres from the beaches of the Romagna riviera opens a world of water and silence that most tourists never even see. The Comacchio Lagoons are vast brackish lagoons of the Po Delta, a mosaic of shallow water, embankments, canals and reed beds where the boundary between land and sea grows uncertain. While a short distance away the beach resorts fill with parasols, here flamingos, herons and the ancient labour of the fishermen reign. And it is precisely this harsh nature, hard to tame, that keeps mass tourism away.

The city on the water

The reference point is Comacchio, the little city on the water crossed by canals and bridges. Its emblematic monument is the Trepponti complex, the imposing 17th-century bridge with its arches and stairways, from which the canals set off towards the lagoons. Comacchio has always been tied to eel fishing, and in the city stands the Manifattura dei Marinati, the old works where eels were processed and preserved, now a museum that tells the story of this culture. It is worth strolling among the canals and loggias before plunging into the lagoons.

The lagoon lodges

Out in the lagoons you come upon the casoni di valle, the masonry or wooden buildings that served the fishermen for their work and shelter. Scattered along the embankments, they are the most authentic testimony to lagoon life, made of nets, fish traps and waiting. Some lodges and fishing stations can be visited and show how eels were caught with the lavorieri, the characteristic lattice weirs that intercepted the fish on their migrations.

The most evocative way to explore the lagoons is by boat. Guided excursions set off from the jetties, penetrating among the reed beds and the sheets of water, stopping at the lodges and offering the chance to spot the birdlife: the pink flamingos, now settled in the area, but also grey herons, little egrets, avocets and many other species that make these lagoons a wetland of international importance. As an alternative, or in addition, there is the bicycle: the embankments lend themselves to long, flat rides between water and sky, and the area is part of the cycle-touring routes of the Po Delta.

Not far away is also Spina, the ancient Etruscan and Greek port whose archaeological remains survive, a reminder that these water lands have been inhabited and exploited for millennia. The whole area is part of the Po Delta Park, internationally recognised for its natural value.

Getting there

Getting there is easy by car: Comacchio is reached from the Romea trunk road and from the roads linking Ferrara and the beach resorts. The reference railway station is Ferrara, from which buses run to Comacchio and the resorts. Once you arrive, it's best to leave the car and move around on foot in the centre, by bike along the embankments and by boat through the lagoons: it is the only way to truly grasp the slow rhythm of this landscape.

When to go

The best time is spring or early autumn. April and May bring clear skies, lush vegetation and great bird activity, with flamingos often clearly visible; September offers pleasant temperatures, fewer mosquitoes and the golden light that makes the expanses of water magical. These are months when the nearby resorts empty out and the lagoons return to an almost total silence, while summer brings humid heat and persistent mosquitoes and winter a windy cold, fascinating though it is for birdwatching.

A practical tip: book the boat excursion into the lagoons in advance, because departures depend on schedules and conditions and places are limited. Bring binoculars and a mosquito repellent even in the mild season, and choose the hours of early morning or late afternoon: that is when the light is finest and the birds most active.

Practical guides

• How to get to Comacchio: complete transport guide
• What to see in Comacchio in 2 days
• Where to stay in Comacchio: neighborhoods, accommodation and practical tips
• Where to eat in Comacchio: eels, lagoon dishes and canal-side osterias