The Asiago Plateau, slow among the hamlets

The Asiago Plateau is known above all for snow and for cheese, but there is another plateau that few seek out: the one of the months without skiing, when the slopes are meadows, the dairies are at work and the hamlets return to an ancient silence. Outside the winter season, the Seven Communes reveal their most authentic soul, made of pastures, woods, borderland history and the memory of the Great War. It is precisely by choosing these months that you avoid the crowds and discover the real plateau.

Hamlets and mountain dairies

The heart of the itinerary is the hamlets and the mountain dairies. The plateau is scattered with small clusters of dispersed houses, the contrade, a legacy of the ancient Cimbrian population that spoke a Germanic language and left its mark on the local place names and culture. Climbing from the villages towards the high pastures you come upon the malghe, where in summer and autumn the famous Asiago cheese is made and where you can taste the milk, butter and freshly made cheeses. Walking from dairy to dairy, among meadows and fir woods, is the best way to experience the slow pace of this land.

The sites of the Great War

The history of the First World War is everywhere. The plateau was the scene of savage battles, and deep traces of them remain. The military memorial of Asiago, with its great monument holding the remains of thousands of the fallen, is the most imposing place of memory. On Monte Cengio you walk the striking road carved into the rock, the Salto del Granatiere, where fierce fighting took place in 1916. On Cima Ortigara, the mountain that symbolises the sacrifice of the Alpini, trenches, tunnels and memorial stones remain: to climb up there is a powerful experience, between high-altitude nature and memory.

Lovers of the sky also know the Asiago Astrophysical Observatory, on the Pennar hill and at Cima Ekar, among the most important in Italy, a sign that the plateau still offers dark, clear skies. For those who love walking, a very dense network of trails links dairies, peaks and hamlets, with itineraries suited to all legs, from strolls among the pastures to the more demanding climbs towards the Great War summits.

Getting there

Getting there requires the climb up to the plateau from the Vicenza plain. From Vicenza and from the Valdastico you go up on the road that leads to Asiago, the main centre of the Seven Communes. There is no direct rail link up to the plateau: the train reaches the towns of the plain and then you continue by bus or car. Once up, it's best to move between the villages at a leisurely pace and then leave the vehicle to explore the hamlets and dairies on foot or by bicycle, making the most of the quiet roads and the waymarked trails.

When to go

The best time is the full summer of the high altitudes and above all autumn. June brings the meadows in bloom and the dairies at work; September and October offer clear air, woods turning yellow and gold and days still bright, perfect for walks towards the peaks. In these months the plateau is free of the winter crowds and those of high summer, and on weekdays you often walk in solitude. Winter turns everything into a busy ski destination, while off season the land returns to a slow rhythm on the scale of those seeking peace.

A practical tip: plan at least one day devoted entirely to the sites of the Great War, choosing among Ortigara, Monte Cengio and the Memorial, because they deserve time and attention and should not be reduced to a quick stop. Bring layered clothing even in summer: at altitude the temperature drops fast and the autumn mornings can be biting. And if you pass by an open dairy, stop for a taste: it is the most sincere way to get to know the plateau.

Practical guides for Vicenza

• Where to stay in Vicenza
• What to see in Vicenza in 2 days
• Where to eat in Vicenza
• How to get to Vicenza