The Po Delta by Bike, Among Lagoons and Flamingos
In the Polesine, where the Po frays into branches and lagoons before the sea, the Delta is one of the most important wetlands in Europe and yet almost ignored by Veneto tourism. By bike, on flat roads among lagoons, sandbars and reserves, you ride in silence among flamingos and herons.
Foto: Carlo Pelagalli (CC BY-SA 3.0) — Wikimedia Commons
Tourist Veneto is made of art cities, mountains and crowded beaches, and almost no one thinks of its southernmost corner: the Po Delta, where the great river splits into branches and dissolves into a labyrinth of lagoons, canals and tongues of sand. It is a horizontal landscape, made of sky and water, recognised as a Biosphere Reserve and a nature park, yet it has remained on the margins of the tourist flows precisely because it offers nothing spectacular in the classic sense: no mountains, no famous postcard villages. For those who love nature and slow travel, it is a treasure.
The bicycle is the perfect means to discover it, because here everything is flat. A convenient base is Porto Tolle or the Ca' Tiepolo area, from which you can reach the most striking spots of the Veneto Delta. Cycling along the embankments you reach Ca' Venier, the Sacca degli Scardovari, a vast lagoon where mussels and clams are farmed, and out to the scanni, the sandy ridges that separate the lagoons from the open sea, such as the Scanno di Boccasette. These are borderlands between land and water where the silence is total and the horizon dissolves.
Birdwatching
The Delta is above all a paradise for birdwatching. The fishing lagoons and the wetlands host thousands of waterbirds, and in recent years flamingos have become a permanent and spectacular presence, with their pink patches on the shallow water. Herons, little egrets, black-winged stilts, avocets and, in winter, great flocks of ducks populate the reserves. Precious observation points are the wetlands around the Sacca degli Scardovari and the lagoons you cross along the embankment cycle paths; with binoculars the experience changes completely.
The route
The route winds along the branches of the river: the Po di Venezia, the Po di Maistra, the Po di Pila with its famous lighthouse, the Po di Gnocca and the Po di Tolle. A stop not to be missed is the Coastal Botanical Garden of Porto Caleri, near Rosolina Mare, where a walking trail crosses the succession of environments from the pine wood to the beach. Also lovely are the boat excursions among the reed beds, which many local operators offer from the small harbours: a way of getting into the heart of the lagoons where the bike cannot go.
Getting there
To get here, the reference railway station is Rovigo, from which you continue towards the Delta by bus or car; those travelling by car can load up their bikes and use it as a mobile base. On the spot the network of embankment roads and cycle paths is extensive and almost flat, ideal even for families and for those who aren't fit. The distances can be long, however, and the services sparse, so it is worth planning your stages and stopping points in advance, considering bike hire where available.
When to go
The best months are April and May, when the Delta fills with migratory and nesting birds and the spring light is crisp, and September, when the heat eases and ideal cycling conditions return. This way you avoid both the muggy heat and the mosquitoes of high summer, and you find a peaceful Delta: this area knows no crowds in any case, but in the shoulder season it is truly only for those seeking nature. The best hours for sightings are dawn and dusk, when the birds are more active and the light is magnificent.
A practical tip: always carry water, sun protection and an insect repellent, because along the embankments shade is scarce and at certain hours the insects are persistent. Binoculars turn the ride into a safari, and a map or a GPS track are useful because among lagoons and canals it is easy to lose your bearings. Give yourself time to stop: the Delta is not to be crossed in a hurry, but absorbed slowly, letting the flat, immense landscape work its effect.
Practical guides for Como
Practical info
When is the best time to visit The Po Delta by Bike?
The recommended time is April, May and September, when it is less crowded.
Where is The Po Delta by Bike?
The Po Delta by Bike is located in Po Delta, Polesine, Rovigo, Italy.
