The Ancient Via Valeriana on the Brescia Shore of Lake Iseo
On the Brescia shore of Lake Iseo, the least fashionable of the Lombard lakes, the ancient Via Valeriana runs along the hillside among villages, country churches and olive groves. A historic route of Roman origin, perfect in the shoulder seasons, far from the crowds of the more famous lakes.
Foto: pascobs (CC BY 2.0) — Wikimedia Commons
Lake Iseo, or Sebino, is the least known of the great Lombard lakes: overshadowed by the fame of Garda and Como, it draws far fewer visitors, and its Brescia shore, rougher and less frequented than the Bergamo side, has stayed quiet. It is precisely here that the ancient Via Valeriana runs, an old road of Roman origin that once linked the plain to the Val Camonica by tracing the hillside above the lake. Restored and waymarked as a hiking trail, today it lets you walk for days among villages, country churches and terraces, with the lake always in view below.
The route unfolds along the eastern shore of the Sebino, from Pilzone, a hamlet of Iseo, all the way to Pisogne, at the gateway to the Val Camonica. You walk on mule tracks, footpaths and cobbled stretches that cross olive groves, vineyards and woods, touching villages and hamlets overlooking the water. Among the loveliest stops are the villages of Marone and Zone, and above all the ancient churches that punctuate the walk, keepers of frescoes and of a deep rural and religious history.
What to see
One of the emblematic sites is the parish church of Santa Maria della Neve in Pisogne, known as the Sistine Chapel of the poor for the cycle of frescoes by Romanino that covers its walls: an unmissable stop at the end or the beginning of the walk. Also not to be missed is the detour to the Pyramids of Zone, spectacular fairy chimneys crowned by large boulders, among the most striking erosion formations in Italy, reached by a short trail from the village. Along the way you also come across numerous small churches and shrines that bear witness to the devotion of these hillside communities.
From high on the Valeriana the gaze takes in the lake and Monte Isola, the great lake island at the heart of the Sebino, the largest lake island in Italy and itself a destination for car-free walks. Many choose to combine the walk along the shore with a boat crossing to Monte Isola, to climb to the sanctuary of the Madonna della Ceriola at the top of the island and enjoy a three-hundred-and-sixty-degree panorama. It is a way to alternate the slow pace on the trails with the gentle rhythm of sailing.
How to get there
The Brescia shore of the lake is well served by rail: the Brescia-Iseo-Edolo line stops in the villages along the coast, from Iseo to Marone and on to Pisogne, which makes it easy to walk the Via Valeriana in stages leaving the car at home, getting off the train at one end and back on at the other. Those travelling by car can rely on the village car parks. The walk is waymarked and lends itself to being split over several days, choosing the stretches according to time and fitness; boats also connect the various towns around the lake.
When to go
The ideal seasons are spring, in April, and autumn, in October and November. These are the shoulder months when the lake is quiet, the trails cool and the colours intense: in April the olive groves and meadows blossom, while in autumn the woods take on colour and the clear air offers very long views. This way you avoid both the heat and the summer bustle, when the Sebino stays far from Garda's numbers anyway. Walking along the hillside in these seasons means having the trails almost to yourself.
A practical tip: the Via Valeriana runs along the hillside, so it alternates ups and downs and sun-exposed stretches; bring water, hiking shoes and a light jacket, because the weather on the lake can change quickly. Check the train and boat timetables before setting off, so you can piece the stages together well and get back comfortably to your starting point. And treat yourself to a stop in the villages to sample the flavours of the lake, from dried fish to local specialities: it is an integral part of this slow walk.
Practical guides
Practical info
What's the best time of year to visit The Ancient Via Valeriana on the Brescia Shore of Lake Iseo?
April, October and November is ideal: those are the months with less tourist traffic.
Is The Ancient Via Valeriana on the Brescia Shore of Lake Iseo a crowded tourist spot?
Compared to the more touristy destinations, The Ancient Via Valeriana on the Brescia Shore of Lake Iseo is very quiet.
What area is The Ancient Via Valeriana on the Brescia Shore of Lake Iseo in?
The Ancient Via Valeriana on the Brescia Shore of Lake Iseo lies in Brescia shore of Lake Iseo, Italy.
Suggested as an alternative to
If you're looking for crowd-free destinations like this one, also see:
42 km · CAI difficulty T · route data from OpenStreetMap
How to get there
- 🚆 Nearest station: San Fernando, Pampanga ~43 km as the crow flies
- ✈️ Nearest airport: Aeroporto internazionale il Caravaggio di Bergamo-Orio al Serio BGY ~27 km as the crow flies
Nearest points as the crow flies (source OpenStreetMap): actual times depend on the roads, often mountain ones.
