Civita — the Devil's Bridge and Albania's Hidden Diaspora

Civita: hidden Albania in the Pollino

There are places in Italy where you cross an invisible border. Civita is one of them: a borgo of three hundred souls perched on the rim of the Raganello Gorge, in the heart of the Pollino National Park, where for over five centuries people have spoken arbëreshë — an archaic variant of Albanian brought here by refugees fleeing the Ottoman advance in the 15th century. The signs are bilingual, the religious rite is Byzantine, and the chimneys of the houses take anthropomorphic shapes that recall silent guardians. Civita is a journey within a journey, another nation inside Calabria.

What to see in Civita

The Devil's Bridge

Its real name is Ponte di Civita, but everyone calls it the Devil's Bridge — according to legend, only the devil could have constructed such a daring stone arch over a gorge more than a hundred metres deep. It's reached with a short hike from the borgo (about 30 minutes on foot, marked trail), descending through Mediterranean scrub and limestone rocks to the Raganello canyon. The view from the bridge is vertiginous: rock walls close in beneath your feet as the torrent rushes below between smooth boulders. It is also the entry point for the celebrated Raganello canyon, navigable with an authorised guide.

The borgo and its speaking chimneys

Civita is small but dense with character. The stone houses of the historic centre feature anthropomorphic chimneys — silhouettes resembling human heads, stylised figures, grotesque faces — an architectural uniquity perhaps explained as apotropaic protection against evil spirits. Each chimney differs from the next, and tracking them down through the lanes becomes a silent treasure hunt. The main square is a natural balcony over the Raganello Gorge, with a view that takes your breath away, especially at sunset.

The Church of Santa Maria Assunta

Of the Greek-Byzantine rite, the church preserves a wooden iconostasis and celebrates the liturgy according to the Italo-Albanian rite, with chants in arbëreshë and Greek. Attending a service is an experience that recalls the Balkans far more than southern Italy. The arbëreshë community of Civita keeps traditions alive such as the Vallja, a collective dance in traditional costume performed at Easter through the streets of the borgo.

The Arbëreshë Ethnic Museum

A small museum set up in the historic centre documents the history of the Albanian diaspora in Calabria, with traditional costumes, everyday objects, period photographs and panels on the language and traditions. It is run with passion by the local community and admission is by free donation.

What to eat

The cooking of Civita blends Calabrian and arbëreshë traditions:

- Dromësat — irregular flour-and-water dumplings dressed with meat ragù and salted ricotta, the defining arbëreshë dish

- Shtridhlat — hand-rolled tagliatelle, often with tomato and basil sauce

- Goat braised in tomato sauce — slow-cooked for hours, served with homemade bread

- Krostoli — fried pastries coated in honey, prepared for festivals

The borgo's handful of trattorias serve fixed menus at very modest prices, with produce that is almost entirely local.

How to get there

Civita lies in northern Calabria, about 75 km from Cosenza and 30 km from Castrovillari. By car it is reached from the A2 Autostrada del Mediterraneo, exit Frascineto-Castrovillari, then following the SP263. The nearest railway station is Sibari, about 40 km away, connected to Cosenza and Taranto. Buses from Castrovillari serve Civita, but with limited timetables. A car is practically essential. Lamezia Terme airport is about two and a half hours away.

When to go

Spring (April–June) is the ideal period: the Raganello carries enough water to be spectacular, the meadows are in bloom and temperatures are perfect for hiking. September and October bring clear days and autumn colours in the Pollino forests. Summer is warm but lively, with arbëreshë cultural events. At Easter the Vallja turns the borgo into an open-air stage — book ahead, as the few accommodation options fill up quickly. Winter is cold and silent, suited to those seeking absolute solitude.

In the area

The Raganello Gorge can be explored with authorised guides on roughly five-hour trips (advance booking required). Morano Calabro, the other great borgo of the Pollino, is half an hour away. For those who want to climb higher, trails from Passo del Pollino lead toward Serra Dolcedorme and the ancient loricati pines.