Stilo, the Byzantine Cattolica and the Secret Trails of the Aspromonte

In the heart of the Stilaro Valley, where the last spurs of the Aspromonte descend towards the Ionian coast, stands a borgo that alone would justify a journey to Calabria: Stilo. Known as the birthplace of the philosopher Tommaso Campanella, author of The City of the Sun, this town of five thousand souls preserves one of the jewels of Byzantine architecture in Italy: the Cattolica, a small central-plan church from the tenth century that has been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

To reach Stilo you follow the SS106 Jonica to Monasterace and then head inland for around twenty kilometres along a scenic road that winds through olive groves and citrus orchards. The borgo announces itself with its stone houses clinging to Monte Consolino, dominated by the remains of a Norman castle that rises against the sky like a jagged crown.

The Cattolica is in the upper part of the village, reachable on foot in about ten minutes from the main square along a paved path. It appears like a vision: five cylindrical domes covered in tiles, a Greek cross plan inscribed in a square, bricks laid in decorative patterns according to the Byzantine cloisonné technique. The interior, intimate and collected, preserves remnants of frescoes that hint at the original magnificence. Light filters through the narrow single-lancet windows and creates a play of shadows that changes with the hours of the day. Visiting at early morning, when the low sun enters through the eastern window, is a mystical experience. The entrance ticket costs a few euros and includes a brief but passionate explanation from the custodian.

From the Cattolica's forecourt, a poorly marked path climbs towards the summit of Monte Consolino. The ascent is steep but short — around thirty minutes — and leads to the ruins of the Norman Castle, from which the view sweeps the entire valley down to the sea. Below, the geometry of the borgo is visible: terracotta rooftops, church bell towers. It is the perfect place for a contemplative pause, perhaps with a piece of bread and a handful of local black olives.

Descending from the castle and returning to the historic centre, the Chiesa Matrice — Stilo's Duomo — merits a visit, with its fine Renaissance portal and three-nave interior preserving a fourteenth-century wooden crucifix. Nearby, the Convento di San Domenico, where Campanella took his vows, now houses a small museum dedicated to the philosopher. The streets of the centre retain noble palazzi with granite doorways and wrought-iron balconies, evidence of a past prosperity linked to iron-working and silk production.

Stilo's surroundings offer naturalistic excursions of great fascination. The Cascata del Marmarico, with its hundred and fourteen metres of fall, is the tallest waterfall in the southern Apennines. It is reached on a trek of around two and a half hours from the village of Bivongi, following the CAI trail that climbs the Stilaro stream through holm oak woods and giant ferns. The route is not demanding but requires hiking boots and a basic level of fitness. Arriving at the base of the waterfall, the roar of the water and the cloud of mist that envelops everything create an enchanted microclimate.

Bivongi itself deserves a detour: the Monastero di San Giovanni Theristis, founded in the eleventh century by Basilian monks, is one of the few active Orthodox monasteries in Italy and offers absolute peace among well-tended gardens and restored frescoes. The monks produce oil and honey, sold in the small monastery shop.

For eating in Stilo, the Trattoria La Vecchia Miniera in the lower part of the village proposes traditional dishes such as fileja with sausage and porcini sauce, stuffed aubergines and oven-baked goat with potatoes. Prices are very honest and portions generous. For an aperitivo with a view, the Bar del Corso on the square has outdoor tables overlooking the valley. The accompanying wine is Bivongi DOC, a robust red produced in the valley from gaglioppo and greco nero grapes.

For accommodation, the Agriturismo Il Feudo dello Stilaro, a few kilometres from the centre, offers simple but comfortable rooms with views over the olive groves and dinner included in the price — a journey through Calabrian peasant cooking. Those who prefer to stay in the village can opt for the B&B Cattolica View, with terraces looking directly onto the Byzantine church.

Stilo is one of those borghi that need to be discovered slowly, without haste, guided by curiosity around every alley, every fountain, every glimpsed vista. It is the most authentic Calabria, the kind that does not appear in glossy guides but stays in the heart of those who have the courage to seek it out.

Practical guides for Todi

• Where to stay in Todi
• What to see in Todi
• Where to eat in Todi
• How to get to Todi