Beyond Paris: Annecy, the Venice of the French Alps
An emerald alpine lake, flower-strewn canals, and mountains mirrored in the water. Annecy is France at its most romantic — without the Parisian crowds.
Foto: sergei.gussev (CC BY 4.0) — Flickr
Annecy is called the 'Venice of the Alps' and the 'Pearl of the French Alps', and for once the nicknames are not exaggerating. The vieille ville — the old town — is threaded by canals fed by the Thiou, the lake's outflowing river, and the colourful houses with their flower-laden balconies are reflected in the water with a postcard perfection that no Instagram filter could improve.
The Palais de l'Île — a triangular building constructed on a tiny island in the middle of the canal — is the symbol of Annecy: once a prison, then a courthouse, today a museum, and one of the most photographed images in France. But unlike the Eiffel Tower, you'll get your shot here without elbowing anyone.
Lake Annecy is considered the cleanest lake in Europe: its emerald waters are swimmable everywhere, and the beaches strung along both the eastern and western shores offer mountain views that take your breath away. Plage d'Albigny, near the centre, is the most beloved urban beach; the beaches at Talloires and Menthon-Saint-Bernard, on the opposite shore, are quieter and more panoramic.
The Château d'Annecy dominates the old town from a rocky spur. Built between the twelfth and sixteenth centuries as the residence of the counts of Geneva and the dukes of Savoy, it now houses a museum and temporary exhibitions. The terrace view sweeps over the old town's rooftops, the lake, and the Aravis mountain range.
Annecy is also an outdoor paradise: in summer you can swim, sail, paddle-board, and cycle the lakeside path that circumnavigates the entire lake (forty kilometres, mostly flat). In winter the ski resorts of La Clusaz, Le Grand-Bornand, and Manigod are half an hour by car. Paragliding from the Col de la Forclaz — landing on the lakeshore — is one of the most exhilarating experiences in the Alps.
Eating in Annecy is a journey into Savoyard gastronomy: tartiflette (a gratin of potatoes, reblochon, and lardons), fondue, raclette, and the poissons du lac — lake fish — particularly omble chevalier (Arctic char) and féra, served at waterside restaurants. Prices are French but not Parisian.
Annecy is reachable from Paris by TGV in three hours forty, from Geneva in forty minutes by car, from Lyon in one hour forty. Geneva airport is the most convenient, with flights from across Europe.
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Practical info
When is the best time to visit Beyond Paris?
The recommended time is May, June, July and September, when it is less crowded.
Is Beyond Paris crowded?
Beyond Paris is a very quiet destination compared with the more touristy ones.
Where is Beyond Paris?
Beyond Paris is located in Annecy, Haute-Savoie, France.
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