Collonges-la-Rouge: the Scarlet Village of the Corrèze

A village that burns with red

There is only one building material in Collonges-la-Rouge, and that material tells the whole story of the place. Red sandstone, quarried from local caves since the Middle Ages, tints every wall, every turret, every arch in a shade that ranges from salmon pink to blood red depending on the light. At sunset, when the low sun ignites the facades, the village seems literally on fire.

Located in the south of the Corrèze, on the border between the Limousin and the Quercy, Collonges-la-Rouge is the village that in 1982 gave rise to the association of «Plus Beaux Villages de France». Yet, compared to the tourist stars of the Dordogne, it remains a place where you can stroll in solitude, especially outside summer.

An exceptional architectural heritage

For a village of barely five hundred inhabitants, the concentration of notable buildings is impressive. Collonges was for centuries a dependency of the nearby abbey of Charroux, and local notables competed to build ever more elegant residences.

The church of Saint-Pierre

The Romanesque church, with its twelfth-century carved tympanum depicting the Ascension, is the oldest monument in the village. The octagonal bell tower in red stone stands out against the sky like a beacon. Inside, the sober nave contrasts with the richness of the external portal.

The nobles' houses

The Maison de la Sirène with its enigmatic sculpture, the Castel de Vassinhac with its twin towers, the Castel de Maussac and the Hôtel de Beauvirie all tell of the village's golden age between the fifteenth and seventeenth centuries. Each building would merit a thorough visit, but the beauty of Collonges is that everything is discovered on foot, without tickets or barriers.

The halle aux grains and the communal oven

The halle aux grains — the sixteenth-century covered market, with its red sandstone columns supporting a roof of lauze — is the social heart of the village. Beside it, the communal oven has been restored and put back into use: on feast days bread is baked as it was centuries ago, perfuming the entire borgo.

The botanical trail

A signposted walk of an hour and a half leads through the countryside around the village, among walnut trees, chestnuts and flowering meadows. The landscape is gentle and rolling, with views opening over the hills of the Corrèze. In autumn, the colours of the foliage mingle with those of the red stone in a natural kaleidoscope.

Turenne and the surroundings

Just eight kilometres away, the village of Turenne deserves a detour. The ancient viscounty of Turenne, one of the last independent feudal holdings in France, was ruled from a castle perched on a limestone peak. The Tour César and the Tour du Trésor offer vast panoramas. Together, Collonges and Turenne make for a perfect day out.

What to eat

• Cherry clafoutis: the emblematic dessert of the Limousin, a soft cake made with whole, unpitted cherries
• Pâté de pommes de terre: savoury pie with potatoes, cream and garlic, golden-crusted
• Périgord walnut: DOP walnuts used in salads, pastries and prized oil
• Moutarde violette de Brive: intensely violet mustard made with grape must
• Vins paillés: local passito wines, sweet and amber, perfect with cheeses

How to get there

The nearest railway station is Brive-la-Gaillarde (20 km), connected to Paris by TGV in about four hours. From Brive continue by car along the D38. Brive-Souillac airport offers seasonal flights from Paris and London. Parking is outside the village, with a short walk to the centre.

The Dordogne valley

Collonges is the gateway to the Vallée de la Dordogne, one of the most beautiful and least-known regions of France. The Dordogne river flows between limestone cliffs, hilltop castles and stone villages. From Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne you can canoe through a landscape that alternates gentle rapids with calm stretches offering views of the castles of Castelnaud and Beynac. The valley is also a land of walnuts, foie gras and black truffles, with seasonal markets that are true gastronomic celebrations. Carennac, twenty kilometres away, offers a Romanesque priory with a carved tympanum and a cloister that is a small jewel of serenity.

When to go

From May to October. The black truffle market in December and January is a unique gastronomic experience. Summer is the most lively period, with concerts in the cloister and evening markets. Spring offers spectacular blossoms and few visitors.