Venzone: The Friulian Borgo That Rose from the Rubble, Home to Its Mysterious Mummies

Venzone: rising from the rubble

In the heart of the val Canale, caught between the Julian Pre-Alps and the Tagliamento river, Venzone is a miracle of human tenacity. The 1976 earthquake razed this fortified medieval borgo to the ground, yet its inhabitants chose to rebuild it stone by stone, numbering each block of limestone and reassembling the puzzle with a patience that moves people still today. The result is a borgo that looks as though it stepped out of the fourteenth century yet vibrates with contemporary life — named among Italy's most beautiful borghi and included in the UNESCO sites of Friuli.

What to see in Venzone

The Duomo di Sant'Andrea and the mummies

The fourteenth-century Duomo, faithfully reconstructed using the anastylosis technique, dominates the main square with its pale stone façade. But it is in the Cappella di San Michele, beside the Duomo, that Venzone keeps its most unsettling secret: the mummies. Discovered in the seventeenth century during expansion works, these bodies were preserved naturally by a fungus, Hypha bombycina, which desiccated the tissues without human intervention. Five mummies are on display, among them the so-called "Gobbo", dating to the fourteenth century. The atmosphere is sober and respectful, far from any sensationalism.

The medieval walls and Porta San Genesio

Venzone is one of the few borghi in Friuli to have preserved intact its thirteenth-century ring of walls, with its two gateways — Porta San Genesio to the south and Porta di Sotto to the north — framing the main corso like an open-air theatre. Walking along the walls, especially at sunset, offers views of the surrounding mountains that take your breath away. The restored corner towers punctuate the perimeter and recall the borgo's strategic role on the road to Austria.

Palazzo Comunale and the permanent exhibition on the earthquake

The Palazzo Comunale houses a small but deeply affecting photographic exhibition on post-earthquake reconstruction. Images of before and after tell the story of a community — hands lifting stones, architects poring over medieval floor plans to give Venzone back its identity. It is an essential stop for understanding what this borgo truly represents.

The Pumpkin Festival

On the fourth Sunday of October each year, Venzone is transformed by the Festa della Zucca, one of the most genuine festivals in Friuli. The borgo fills with stalls of local produce, carved pumpkins and dishes made from the vegetable: pumpkin gnocchi, risotto, cakes and even pumpkin beer. The atmosphere is sincere, without the chaos of commercial food fairs, and the medieval borgo provides a perfect backdrop.

What to eat in Venzone

The cuisine of Venzone is the robust fare of the Friulian mountains, with Carnic and Austrian influences. Do not miss:

• Frico — the emblematic dish of Friuli, made from melted Montasio cheese with potatoes, crispy on the outside and melting within
• Cjarsòns — sweet-and-savoury ravioli filled with herbs, smoked ricotta and spices, dressed with melted butter and grated smoked ricotta
• Gubana — a spiral pastry filled with walnuts, raisins, pine nuts and grappa, typical of the Natisone valleys but found throughout Friuli
• Craft beers — the area has seen a flourishing of microbreweries using Alpine spring water

For a memorable lunch, look for the trattorie along via Glizoio di Mels, where menus change with the seasons and the bill remains reasonable.

How to get there

Venzone lies on the SS13 Pontebbana, about 25 km north of Udine. By car, take the Carnia–Tolmezzo exit from the A23 motorway. By train, Venzone station is on the Udine–Tarvisio line, with frequent regional services — the borgo is a five-minute walk from the station, making it perfect for a car-free day trip. From Trieste the journey takes about 90 minutes; from Venice just over two hours.

When to go

Spring (April–June) is ideal: mild temperatures, flowering meadows around the borgo and perfect light for photographing the walls. September and October bring autumn colours and the Pumpkin Festival. Summer can be warm, but the proximity of the mountains guarantees cool evenings. Winter has its austere charm, with snow on the peaks framing the borgo, though some facilities may keep reduced hours.

In the surrounding area

From Venzone you can easily reach Lake Cavazzo (15 minutes), the headwaters of the Tagliamento and the start of the Carnia. The borgo is also an excellent base for hikes in the Julian Pre-Alps or for visiting Gemona del Friuli, also rebuilt after the earthquake and rich in history.