Trekking in the Nebrodi on the Sentiero Italia, among beech woods and horses

Say Sicily and almost everyone thinks of the sea. And yet, behind the Tyrrhenian coast, a green and deep mountain range stretches out that catches off guard those who meet it for the first time: the Nebrodi Mountains, the most wooded flank of the island, where in place of olive trees and prickly pears there are dense beech woods, highland pastures and silent little lakes. It is a landscape no one expects from Sicily, and precisely for that reason the Nebrodi stay off the tourist routes, frequented above all by local hikers and by those seeking true nature.

On the Sentiero Italia

The guiding thread for discovering them on foot is the Sentiero Italia, the great walk that runs the length of the peninsula and that in Sicily crosses this range too. On the Nebrodi stretch you walk among beech and Turkey oak woods, along open ridges from which the gaze reaches as far as Etna, which rises snow-capped on the horizon, and on clear days as far as the sea of the Aeolian Islands. The great surprise, along the paths, are the San Fratello horses, a semi-wild breed typical of these mountains, which you meet roaming free at pasture in the clearings: an unexpected image that on its own tells how different this mountain is from the postcard Sicily.

The lake and the villages

The park's natural symbol is Lake Biviere di Cesarò, a highland sheet of water surrounded by pastures, important for migratory birds and an extraordinary vantage point with Etna in the background. Among the area's landmarks are the mountain centres that serve as gateways to the park: Cesarò, Floresta, one of the highest municipalities in Sicily, San Fratello, from which the horses take their name, and the villages on the Tyrrhenian side such as Alcara Li Fusi and Longi, from which you climb up towards the higher altitudes. From these bases start the paths that join the route of the Sentiero Italia and the park's hiking network, crossing monumental beech woods and clearings.

Getting there

To get here it is best to aim for the northern Tyrrhenian coast, well served by the motorway and the railway between Messina and Palermo, and then climb up towards the mountain villages. A car is practically indispensable for reaching the trailheads, because public connections between the inland villages are sparse and geared towards residents. Once at altitude, you move on foot: the Nebrodi are made for slow trekking, stage by stage, sleeping in the villages or in the farm stays of the area. For the more demanding excursions, or to avoid losing the paths in the stretches of dense forest, consider the support of local guides, who know the routes and the pastures where you can spot the horses.

When to go

The best time is late spring, May and June, when the beech woods are a luminous green, the meadows are in bloom and the air at altitude is cool even as the coast begins to heat up. The other precious window is October, with the foliage setting the woods alight in red and gold and a clarity that throws open the views over Etna. In these months the Nebrodi are at the peak of their beauty but almost empty: while the beaches empty or fill depending on the season, here you walk for hours meeting more horses than people. Avoid the depths of winter, when snow can close roads and high-altitude paths.

A practical tip: in the mountains the weather changes fast, so always bring a warm layer and a waterproof shell even on a day that starts sunny, and trekking footwear suited to the sometimes muddy ground of the beech woods. Approach the San Fratello horses with respect and at a distance: they are semi-wild animals, not for petting. And allow yourself the time to stop in a clearing, in silence, to let the idea sink in that this, truly, is Sicily.