The Pista Altomontana on Etna's North Side
On the northern slope of Etna, the Pista Altomontana crosses lava flows and pine forests far from the cable cars and coaches of the south side. A long traverse across the volcano's least touristy flank, where you walk almost alone.
Foto: Simone Tinella (CC BY-SA 4.0) — Wikimedia Commons
The Etna almost everyone knows is the one on the south side, the Rifugio Sapienza with its car parks, the cable car and the off-road vehicles that carry tourists towards the summit craters. But the volcano has other faces, and the most silent is the one on the north side, above Linguaglossa and the plateau of Piano Provenzana. Here runs the Pista Altomontana, a long unpaved road closed to traffic that skirts halfway up around the cone, among lava flows, forests of Laricio pine and Etna birches, offering one of the most spectacular and least frequented itineraries on the mountain.
The route
The Pista Altomontana is a long traverse that loops around the volcano, linking various refuges and rest points. On the north side the most convenient access point is Piano Provenzana, above Linguaglossa, from which you pick up the dirt track. As you walk you cross landscapes that change constantly: the recent lava fields, black and sharp, give way to pine woods and clearings where the green comes as a surprise, and then again to the flows that have shaped the mountain over the centuries. Along the way you come across old refuges and shelters, some half-destroyed by eruptions, that tell the story of a volcano forever active. In the background, when the clouds allow, the summit cone rises with its plumes of vapour.
The itinerary lends itself to different lengths. You can walk a stretch out and back in a day, setting off from Piano Provenzana and returning, or tackle the longer traverse that links the north side to the west, spending the night in one of the refuges along the route for those who want to break up the walk. In any case it is a high-altitude route, in a high-mountain environment, where sun and wind make themselves felt and where conditions can change quickly.
Getting there
To reach the north side you drive to Linguaglossa, a town on Etna's foothills, and from there climb towards Piano Provenzana along the road that crosses the Ragabo pine forest. Public transport up to these altitudes is limited, so a car remains the most practical solution. The difference from the south side is immediately apparent: fewer facilities, fewer crowds, and that sense of having the mountain almost all to yourself. Those who prefer not to walk alone can rely on the volcanological guides, strongly recommended for anyone aiming for the summit zones, which on Etna are regulated and not always accessible on your own.
When to go
The best period runs from the start of summer to the beginning of autumn, between June and September, when the snow has melted at the track's elevations and the trails are passable. September in particular offers cooler air and clear light. Even in the hot months, at these altitudes, temperatures stay pleasant for walking, far removed from the heat of the Catania plain. And precisely because most visitors concentrate on the south side and on guided crater excursions, the Pista Altomontana stays quiet even in high season: you meet few hikers, the odd cyclist, and for long stretches only the sound of the wind through the pines.
Practical tips
A practical tip: dress in layers and never underestimate Etna's weather. Up here the weather changes rapidly, the summer sun can turn scorching for lack of shade on the flows, and the cold wind arrives suddenly. Bring plenty of water, because there are no reliable sources along the track, sturdy shoes for the surface of volcanic sand and stone, a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen. Set off early in the morning: the light is better, the air cooler, and you'll have time to enjoy at your own pace one of the most authentic sides of the volcano. Bear in mind, finally, that Etna is a living mountain: volcanic activity can alter the accessibility of some areas and trails can change over time, so always check the latest conditions before setting out, at the refuges or with local guides. And allow yourself a few stops: sitting on a cooled lava flow, with the woods behind you and the smoking cone in front, is a way to understand this mountain far better than the cable-car ride everyone takes on the other side.
Practical guides for Como
Practical info
When is the best time to visit The Pista Altomontana on Etna's North Side?
The recommended time is June, July and September, when it is less crowded.
Where is The Pista Altomontana on Etna's North Side?
The Pista Altomontana on Etna's North Side is located in Northern slope of Etna, Sicily.
