The Sentiero Italia Across the Sila Grande
In the Sila National Park, in the province of Cosenza, the Sentiero Italia crosses pine forests, lakes and the monumental Giants of the Sila. A Calabrian plateau with a Nordic air, far from the seaside routes and almost always deserted.
Foto: Antonio Martino (CC BY-SA 3.0) — Wikimedia Commons
The Sila belies every cliché about Calabria. Forget the sea and the crowded beaches: up here, on a vast plateau at over a thousand metres, stretch dense pine forests, blue lakes and pastures that recall Northern Europe more than the Mediterranean. It is a land of woods and silence, crossed by the Sentiero Italia, the great hiking spine that runs the length of the peninsula, and this Sila stretch is among the most solitary of all: the tourists who fill the Calabrian coasts rarely climb this high, and the trails remain almost deserted even in summer.
The plateau and the lakes
The heart of the Sila Grande is the area around the great artificial lakes, Lake Cecita and Lake Arvo, set among the pine forests. From these zones the stretches of the Sentiero Italia set out and wind their way, linking the localities of the plateau by crossing forests of laricio pine, the conifer that is the symbol of the Sila, and broad clearings. It is a measured, relaxed kind of walking, made of long stretches among the trees, glimpses of water and sudden openings onto the pastures.
The Giants of the Sila
The stage no one should miss is the Reserve of the Giants of the Sila, near Fallistro, close to Camigliatello Silano. Here survives a group of monumental laricio pines and maples, trees hundreds of years old and dozens of metres tall, among the most imposing in Italy: to walk at their feet, in the protected wood, is an experience that puts everything into perspective. Not far off, Camigliatello is the reference village for stocking up and organising excursions, while the Cupone area, on Lake Cecita, offers nature trails and wildlife observation points, from deer to raptors.
Those who love water can devote a day to the shores of Lake Arvo, around Lorica, where the trails skirt the basin among the pine forests and open onto broad, luminous views. The light over the Sila has a quality all its own: it filters through the tall, straight trunks of the laricio pine, creating a quiet, intimate atmosphere that invites you to slow your pace. It is a landscape that changes little along the way and, precisely for this reason, is soothing, leaving room for your thoughts and for the steady rhythm of the walk.
How to get there
To get there a car is best. You climb up from Cosenza towards the plateau along the roads that lead to Camigliatello and Lorica, the two main Sila localities, or you come up from San Giovanni in Fiore on the inland side. Public transport reaches the larger centres but does not serve the trails, so to move among the woods you need to be self-sufficient. Once at altitude you proceed on foot along the forest tracks, generally comfortable.
The beauty of hiking the Sila is its accessibility: many stretches follow forest tracks and trails with an even surface, with gentle gradients, suitable even for families and for those who are not expert walkers. The stages of the Sentiero Italia can, however, be long and repetitive in the woods, where visual landmarks are scarce, so it is best to ration the distances and keep an eye on your orientation. The visit to the Giants and the Cupone nature trails, by contrast, is short and within everyone's reach. The Sentiero Italia's signage exists but is not always continuous, so an up-to-date map is precious.
When to go
The ideal period is summer, particularly June, when the plateau is cool while the coast gasps in the heat, and the woods are in full green; or autumn, September and October, the season of mushrooms, foliage and clear air, with the larches and beeches turning golden. Winter brings abundant snow and transforms the Sila into a Nordic landscape for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. In any case visitor numbers stay low: touristy Calabria is the Calabria of the sea, and the plateau keeps to itself, cool and silent.
A practical tip: even in summer, pack a sweatshirt and a light jacket, because the evenings at altitude are cool and the weather changes quickly. Carry water and something to eat, since refreshment points along the trails are rare, and take advantage of the villages to taste the Sila's produce, from mushrooms to cheeses. Walk slowly, let yourself be wrapped in the scent of resin, and discover a Calabria that almost no one knows.
Practical guides for Como
Practical info
When is the best time to visit The Sentiero Italia Across the Sila Grande?
The recommended time is June, September and October, when it is less crowded.
Where is The Sentiero Italia Across the Sila Grande?
The Sentiero Italia Across the Sila Grande is located in Sila National Park, Cosenza.
