Scanno in January: The Heart-Shaped Lake, the Silence and the Gold Presentosa
In January Scanno empties of everything but the essentials: medieval lanes, the scent of arrosticini and cold light on the heart-shaped lake.
Scanno in summer is a parking problem. Scanno in January is almost a secret. Yet this medieval village in the Sagittario Valley, in the province of L'Aquila, about 30 kilometres from Sulmona, is one of the most history-dense and form-rich places in the central Apennines: its houses crowd together on a slope as if trying to warm each other, the viccie — the covered alleyways typical of the village — create tunnels of shadow and grey stone, and the people who still live here, few but present, carry on trades that have vanished elsewhere.
The filigree tradition and the old costume
Scanno is famous, among specialists, for the presentosa, a gold filigree jewel that women of the village traditionally wear on the Scannese costume — an Eastern-looking outfit with a black skirt and a silk apron that some ethnographers trace to Byzantine or Albanian influence. In winter a few artisan goldsmiths still keep their workshops open in the old town, and it is worth stopping to watch the hands working the thin gold wire. Mostaccioli, honey-and-almond spiced biscuits, can be found in the few pastry shops still open, along with pan dell'orso, a soft chocolate cake that becomes indispensable in the cold.
The heart-shaped lake under ice
Lake Scanno, at 922 metres, is Abruzzo's largest mountain lake. Its heart shape, visible only from above and now viral on social media, transforms in winter: the water reflects the snowy peaks of the Marsicani mountains, and when temperatures drop far enough, the shores rim with ice. There are no crowds. There is no queue for the viewpoint. You walk along the shore in silence, with chamois occasionally appearing among the bare beeches of the Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise National Park.
How to get there and where to eat
The only practical way to reach Scanno in winter is by car: from Sulmona you take the SS479 through the Sagittario Gorge, a road that is a destination in itself, with rock walls closing in to just a few metres. At the table, pecora alla cottora — a slow lamb stew with herbs and wine — is the right dish for freezing evenings; you find it in the old-town trattorias that stay open even in low season.
Practical info
When is the best time to visit Scanno in January?
The recommended time is December, January and February, when it is less crowded.
Is Scanno in January crowded?
Scanno in January is a almost deserted destination compared with the more touristy ones.
Where is Scanno in January?
Scanno in January is located in Scanno.
