Snowshoeing in Val Maira: the Occitan valley of Cuneo without ski lifts or crowds

Val Maira is a fortunate anomaly in the Cuneo stretch of the Alps: it has never had any major ski facilities, and this absence — experienced for decades as backwardness — has turned into a competitive advantage now that tourism has started seeking authenticity. The valley is known and loved mostly by Germans, Swiss, and Austrians, who come in summer for trekking along the Grande Traversata delle Alpi and in winter for snowshoeing. Most Italians haven't discovered it yet.

An Occitan valley: language, culture, cuisine

Val Maira is one of Piedmont's Occitan valleys: the language still spoken by local elders is Alpine Provençal, traditional festivals have names that sound foreign to Italian ears, and trail maps still carry Occitan place names. Acceglio, the last municipality before the French border, sits at 1,220 metres and is the starting point for some of the most beautiful winter routes. Dark rye bread, mountain-pasture cheeses — Val Maira's toma has its own denomination — and bagna cauda prepared with Slow Food Presidium anchovies round out the gastronomic picture.

Snowshoe routes: trails and difficulty levels

When snow falls, Val Maira's trails transform into snowshoe tracks of varying difficulty. From Ponte di Marmora, family-friendly itineraries wind through conifer forests toward the upper plateaus. From Acceglio, snowshoes take you to the spectacular Cascata della Stroppia, a roughly 80-metre waterfall that partially freezes in winter, forming striking ice formations. The trails aren't groomed like ski runs: a local alpine guide is recommended, bookable through associations in Dronero or Cuneo.

Getting there and where to stay

Val Maira is reached from Cuneo via the SP422 toward Stroppo and Acceglio: about 60 kilometres, one hour by car. There are no frequent winter public transport services. Along the valley you'll find a few rifugi and agriturismos open by reservation even in winter; the Locanda Occitana in Stroppo is a reference for anyone wanting to dine on the valley's traditional cuisine. January and February weekends offer the most stable snow conditions.