The Monviso Loop, around the Stone King

Monviso dominates the Piedmont plain with its unmistakable pyramid, and yet while in summer millions of people crowd onto beaches and into art cities, around its base you walk in a solitude that seems impossible. The Stone King, as it is called here, is the mountain from which the Po springs, and it is the heart of a multi-day hiking loop that circles it completely, crossing into French territory. It is a journey for those who want to earn the landscape step by step, far from cable cars and scenic car parks.

The loop route

The classic base to set off from is Pian del Re, in the upper Po Valley, above Crissolo, right where the sources of the Po rise. From here the circuit unfolds, touching a series of refuges and high passes that serve as natural stages. You climb toward the Rifugio Quintino Sella, at the foot of Monviso's rock face, splendidly overlooking the alpine lakes. The loop continues over the passes that lead to the French side of the Queyras, where the landscape changes, becoming more arid and luminous, with other stopping points. On the Italian side of the Varaita Valley you descend toward the Occitan settlements such as Chianale, one of the finest stone villages in the Alps, before closing the circle by climbing back toward the Po Valley. Along the way you also pass, in a tunnel beneath the rock, the famous Buco di Viso, the oldest alpine tunnel, dug centuries ago to encourage trade between Piedmont and the Dauphiné.

The way to tackle it is as a stage-by-stage trek, sleeping in the refuges. Each day you walk for several hours in a high-mountain environment, crossing passes, skirting lakes and moraines. It is not a route to improvise: it requires fitness, a sure foot and proper equipment. The refuges must be booked in advance, because places are limited and fill up in the summer months. Since this is an international circuit, it is wise to carry a document for the French border.

How to get there

To reach it, you drive up the Po Valley to Crissolo and continue, when allowed, toward Pian del Re, from where the loop begins. The area of the Po sources is protected, and in busier periods car access may be regulated, so it is worth checking beforehand. Alternatively you can set up the circuit starting from the Varaita Valley. Once on the trails, you move exclusively on foot.

When to go

The window for hiking it is narrow: July and August are practically the only months when the high passes are free of snow and the refuges are open. It may seem contradictory to speak of uncrowded places in high summer, but that is exactly where the beauty lies: while the coast and the cities are bursting, up here the tourist pressure is minimal, made up of silent, mindful hikers. You still have to choose well: even in the high mountains, August weekends are livelier, while on weekdays you often walk alone. Watch out for afternoon thunderstorms, frequent in summer: it is best to set off early and reach the refuge by early afternoon.

Living the mountains slowly

A practical tip: don't rush to close the loop. If your legs and time allow, add a day to enjoy the lakes below the Quintino Sella at dawn, or to explore the Occitan villages of the Varaita, where culture, language and architecture tell of an alpine world different from that of the tourist valleys. Dress in layers because at altitude the weather changes fast, carry a water supply between one refuge and the next, and respect the rhythms of the mountains. The Monviso Loop is not conquered by running: it is lived slowly, one pass at a time, with the Stone King always there, watching over the way.

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