Skip Cortina: Auronzo di Cadore, Authentic Dolomites Without the Price Tag

Auronzo di Cadore: the Dolomites for Those Who Love Mountains, Not Luxury

Cortina d'Ampezzo is the "Queen of the Dolomites," but it is also one of the most expensive mountain resorts in Europe. Between five-star hotels, luxury boutiques and a social scene that feels more like Milan than the Alps, Cortina has lost much of the authentic alpine character that made it famous. Auronzo di Cadore, a mere thirty kilometres away, offers the same spectacular mountains — including the iconic Tre Cime di Lavaredo — but with a very different soul: that of a real mountain town where Ladin is still spoken and tourism is part of life, not all of it.

Why Choose Auronzo

The difference between Cortina and Auronzo is first economic, then atmospheric.

- The Tre Cime di Lavaredo: the toll road to Rifugio Auronzo, the starting point for the circuit of the Tre Cime, begins right here in Auronzo. The famous peaks are actually closer from here than from Cortina.

- Halved costs: a night in a hotel in Auronzo costs on average 50–60% less than in Cortina. The same goes for restaurants, ski lifts and services.

- Authentic atmosphere: Auronzo is a mountain town with a life of its own, not a showcase for wealthy tourists. The bars in the centre are full of craftsmen and woodcutters, not influencers.

- Lake Santa Caterina: an alpine lake nestled among the mountains, perfect for walks, picnics and moments of quiet contemplation.

The Tre Cime di Lavaredo from Auronzo

The Tre Cime di Lavaredo are the symbol of the Dolomites and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From Auronzo, the panoramic road climbs to Rifugio Auronzo (2,320 m), where the famous circuit of the Tre Cime begins: a loop of roughly 9.5 km that delivers views of these three rock towers from every angle. The route is accessible to intermediate hikers and takes 3–4 hours to complete.

Along the way you pass Rifugio Lavaredo and Rifugio Locatelli, where the panorama of the Tre Cime from the north face is perhaps the most photographed view in the Dolomites. In summer the rifugi serve canederli, polenta and strudel with a view.

The advice is to set out early in the morning to avoid the crowds on the trail and catch the best light for photos. Alternatively, late afternoon offers spectacular sunsets once most visitors have already descended.

Beyond the Tre Cime

Auronzo is not only the Tre Cime. Lake Santa Caterina, just outside the village, is a small mirror of water ringed by spruce and larch forests, perfect for a sunset stroll. Lake Misurina, a few kilometres away, is one of the most beautiful alpine lakes in the Dolomites, reflecting the Tre Cime on clear days.

In winter, Auronzo offers cross-country and downhill skiing at prices far below those of Cortina. The Auronzo Biathlon Centre is one of the most important in Europe and hosts training camps for national teams. Snowshoe walks through the snow-covered woods around the lake are a magical and free experience.

Cadore Culture

The Cadore is the land of Tiziano Vecellio, born in Pieve di Cadore a few kilometres from Auronzo. The painter's birthplace is open to visitors, as is the Museo dell'Occhiale in Pieve, dedicated to the optical tradition that made the Cadore the most important eyewear district in the world — Luxottica and Safilo are both based here.

The traditional Cadorine woodworking craft is still alive: in the workshops of Auronzo and nearby villages you will find carvers who create sculptures, furniture and objects in Swiss stone pine using techniques passed down through generations.

Where to Eat

Cadorine cuisine is mountain food — hearty and genuine. Casunziei (ravioli filled with red beetroot, dressed with butter and poppy seeds) are the signature dish. Polenta with venison or with Piave cheese is the winter comfort food. At Ristorante Da Nando you will find traditional Cadorine cooking, while Rifugio Monte Agudo, reachable on a short walk, serves mountain dishes with a panoramic view. For breakfast, the village pastry shops bake strudel and krapfen fresh each morning.

How to Get There and When to Go

Auronzo is reached by car from the A27 motorway (exit Pian di Vedoia) and then along the SS51 and SP48. By bus, connections run from Calalzo di Cadore (railway station on the Venice–Calalzo line). The summer months (June–September) are ideal for hiking; December–February for winter sports. September is the perfect month: the larches turn gold, the Tre Cime are less crowded and temperatures are still mild for walking.