Secret Cannaregio: The Venice That Still Lives, Between the Ghetto and the Fondamenta

Cannaregio is the sestiere where Venice actually lives. Real Venetians are in Cannaregio: mornings they shop along Rio Terà San Leonardo, at lunchtime they knock back an ombra (a small glass of wine) in the bacari (traditional wine bars) of Fondamenta della Misericordia, and in the evening they walk the Cannaregio canal. Tourism stops at the Ca' d'Oro; past the train station, another city opens up.

The Venetian Ghetto, the oldest in the world

Founded in 1516, the Venetian Ghetto is the first in history — the very word derives from the geto, the foundry that once stood on this scrap of land. The Ghetto Nuovo (the central islet with the square) and the Ghetto Vecchio (a little to the south) once housed up to five thousand people in extraordinarily tall buildings (up to eight storeys, forced upward by the shortage of ground). Around twenty Jewish families still live here, and five synagogues can be visited alongside the Jewish Museum.

Fondamenta della Misericordia, the real bacari

Fondamenta della Misericordia is the long walk along Cannaregio's inner canal. Serious bacari with proper cicchetti (small savory bites eaten at the counter) — Al Timon, Al Parlamento, Vino Vero — young Venetians perched on low walls, kayaks gliding past. Aperitivo here is worth as much as any Piazza San Marco. Things kick off around 6 p.m.

The Madonna dell'Orto, Tintoretto's parish church

The Madonna dell'Orto was Tintoretto's parish; he is buried here. It holds three of his colossal masterpieces: the Last Judgment, the Adoration of the Golden Calf and the Presentation of the Virgin. Entry by donation, no queues, and an atmosphere thick with meaning. One of the most literary spots in Venice.

Sacca San Girolamo and the green campo

A short way beyond the Madonna dell'Orto, the Sacca San Girolamo is a slim tongue of land with a small tree-lined campo where Cannaregio's children still play. Benches, lagoon, horizon. Twenty minutes in your (mental) armchair before pressing on.

Ca' d'Oro without the queue

The Ca' d'Oro — the most famous Gothic palazzo on the Grand Canal — houses the Galleria Franchetti (with Mantegna's Saint Sebastian). It's worth the ticket, and in late afternoon it's nearly empty. Less famous than the Doge's Palace, no less spectacular from the outside.

The Scuola Grande di San Marco (the hospital)

Adjoining the church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo, the Scuola Grande di San Marco today serves as the monumental entrance to Venice's civic hospital. Its Renaissance façade by Codussi is superb. You can step inside (up to a certain point) as a member of the public. A curious piece of urbanism: Italian public health slipping into a Cinquecento masterpiece.

The Ponte dei Tre Archi and the Fondamenta delle Guglie

The Ponte dei Tre Archi is the only bridge in Venice with three arches. Vaporetti and gondolas slide beneath it; up on top you can sit and watch the Cannaregio canal with Palazzo Labia in the distance. A short walk away, the Fondamenta delle Guglie is the most photographed quayside in the sestiere.

The Sacca della Misericordia and the regattas

The Sacca della Misericordia, past the Madonna dell'Orto, is the little harbour where Venice's rowing clubs train and where the Regata Storica sets off every first Sunday in September. On a summer afternoon, sitting on the pier, you can watch the rowers in period dress rehearsing their strokes. One of the places where Venice is still itself.

How to plan the day

Morning: Ferrovia → Rio Terà San Leonardo → the Ghetto (with a guided tour) → lunch in the Ghetto (Gam Gam kosher or Al Vecio Fritolin). Afternoon: Ca' d'Oro → Madonna dell'Orto → Sacca San Girolamo → Tre Archi. Evening: aperitivo along Fondamenta della Misericordia (Al Timon, Al Parlamento).

Is Cannaregio as expensive as San Marco?

No. A bacaro with three cicchetti and an ombra runs 8–10 euros. A neighbourhood trattoria (a family-run restaurant) will set you back 25–30. If you want an authentic Venice that doesn't fleece you, sleep and eat here. Some of the best-value hotels line the Cannaregio canal.

See also

Cannaregio is the natural counterpart to Castello. With an extra night, visit all the secret corners of Venice too.