The Ghetto and the Pescherie Vecchie: medieval Bologna among its narrowest alleys

Everyone knows Bologna for its porticoes, the Two Towers and the crowded tables of Piazza Maggiore. But just turn off Via Rizzoli into a side street and you'll find yourself in a world few visitors seek out: the old Jewish Ghetto, a tangle of medieval streets left almost unchanged. Alleys like Via dell'Inferno, Via Mandria and Via de' Giudei narrow until the walls almost touch, overhung by wooden jetties and windows that seem to lean on one another.

The Jewish Ghetto

This was the quarter assigned to the Jewish community in the sixteenth century, until its expulsion. Today a small plaque and the Jewish Museum, housed nearby, keep this memory alive. You walk with your nose in the air among exposed brick, low arches and views that change at every step: it's one of the few corners of the centre where the noise of the city softens and all that's left is the echo of your footsteps on the cobbles.

The Pescherie Vecchie

A short distance away opens the area of the Quadrilatero and the Pescherie Vecchie, along Via Drapperie and Via Pescherie Vecchie. Here, where fish was once sold and the artisan workshops were concentrated, the merchant soul of medieval Bologna survives. The stone signs, the counters of cured meats, cheeses and bread tell of a living tradition, even if at peak hours the aperitivo crowd can fill the alleys.

When to go

The advice is simple: come early in the morning or in the middle of the afternoon, out of season. Walk the Ghetto in silence, then head down towards the Pescherie for a coffee or a taste in the historic shops. This is the Bologna that endures, made of stone, shadow and ancient trades, a stone's throw from the crowds and yet worlds away.

Related guides: Alternatives to Venice: cities and villages on the water away from the crowds · Where to go in January in Italy: art cities and villages off-season · Emilia-Romagna by train: a slow itinerary along the Via Emilia without a car.

Getting there

The Ghetto and the Pescherie Vecchie, along with the Quadrilatero, lie in the medieval heart of Bologna a stone's throw from Piazza Maggiore and are explored only on foot among the alleys. The relevant station is Bologna Centrale, close to the centre. The Marconi airport is connected to the station by the Marconi Express people mover; by car, leave your vehicle in the car parks outside the ZTL, which covers the entire historic area.

Practical guides

• How to get to Bologna: trains, planes, cars and buses
• What to see in Bologna in 2 days: complete itinerary through arcades and towers
• Where to stay in Bologna: neighborhoods, accommodation and practical tips
• Where to eat in Bologna: best restaurants, trattorias and street food guide