Behind the Castello Estense: Ferrara's red-brick courtyards

Ferrara is one of those cities the crowds pass through without ever really stopping. The Castello Estense, with its water-filled moat and drawbridges, draws in almost every visitor in just a few hours, while a stone's throw away the medieval quarter stays nearly empty. Just slip into the narrow alleys that widen towards the centre and you'll find yourself alone, among dark wooden doors and brick walls that shift colour with the changing daylight.

The hidden courtyards

It's here, in the web of streets behind the piazza, that the hidden courtyards open up: little passageways leading to private inner courts, glimpses of Renaissance palazzi, external staircases and loggias you can just make out by peering past a half-open gate. These tucked-away corners are quiet stops that few seek out: less a monument than an excuse to lose yourself in the quarter and wander with no destination in mind.

The silence

The beauty of this lesser Ferrara is its silence. No queues, no market stalls, just the sound of your own footsteps on the cobbles and the outline of the Castello reappearing suddenly at the end of a street. The bicycles, the city's true masters, glide quietly past. It's best to explore on foot in the early morning or late afternoon, when the light cuts across the brickwork and the courtyards fill with long shadows.

Visiting with respect

To visit with respect, remember that many of the courts are private spaces: look in through open doorways without stepping inside, speak softly and leave gates and buzzers alone. This is how Ferrara is best enjoyed, slowly, as a serene alternative to the art cities taken by storm. Half a day is enough to fall for it, but it's worth staying until evening.

Related guides: Little-known castles of Italy: fortresses and manors far from mass tourism · Alternatives to Venice: cities and villages on the water away from the crowds · Off-season destinations in Italy: where to go far from the crowds (and when).

Getting there

The courtyards lie in Ferrara's historic centre, just behind the Castello Estense. From the railway station the castle is a few minutes away by city bus or on foot; by car, take the Ferrara Sud exit on the A13 motorway and follow the signs for the centre. The nearest airport is Bologna, connected to Ferrara by a shuttle service as well.

Practical guides

• How to get to Ferrara: trains, planes, cars and buses
• What to see in Ferrara in 2 days: itinerary through the Este Castle and Renaissance walls
• Where to stay in Ferrara: neighborhoods, accommodation and practical tips
• Where to eat in Ferrara: best restaurants, trattorias and Este cuisine guide