Instead of Venice: Comacchio, the Little Venice of Emilia-Romagna

Comacchio: canals, flamingos and genuine flavours

Every year millions of tourists pour into Venice, turning its calli and bridges into overcrowded corridors where taking a photograph becomes a feat. Yet, just over an hour's drive to the south, there is a borgo that preserves the same lagoon charm without the vaporetto queues and sky-high prices: Comacchio, the little Venice of Emilia-Romagna.

Why choose Comacchio

Comacchio sits at the heart of the Po Delta Park, a unique landscape of valleys, canals and salt marshes where nature holds sway. Unlike Venice, here you can stroll across the bridges without being elbowed aside, stop to watch the pink flamingos in the lagoons and dine in a traditional osteria for half the price. The borgo has maintained a rare authenticity: fishermen still head out at dawn in their flat-bottomed boats, and the tradition of marinated eel is living cultural heritage.

What to see in Comacchio

- Trepponti: the city's landmark, a monumental bridge with five staircases built in 1634 that links four canals. At sunset, the golden light turns the scene into a painting.

- Museo Delta Antico: housed in the former Ospedale degli Infermi, it preserves the cargo of a 1st-century BC Roman ship, with amphorae, jewellery and everyday objects in perfect condition.

- Manifattura dei Marinati: the ancient factory where eel was processed using the traditional marinade method. Today it is a living museum where visitors can watch the seasonal production.

- Valli di Comacchio: boat or bicycle excursions among fishing lodges, pink flamingos and breathtaking sunsets. The birdwatching here is among the finest in Italy.

- Lidi di Comacchio: seven beach resorts with wide, peaceful shores, ideal for families. Lido degli Estensi and Lido di Spina offer pine forests and natural dunes.

The flavours of the Delta

Comacchio's cuisine is a journey into the tastes of lagoon and sea. Marinated eel is the signature dish, prepared according to a recipe dating back to the Middle Ages: roasted on a spit and then preserved in a brine of vinegar and salt. But don't miss the cappellacci di zucca, the salama da sugo and rice with clams from the lagoon. For an authentic experience, seek out the trattorie in the historic centre where menus change with the seasons and the fish comes straight from local fishermen's boats.

Getting there

Comacchio is easily reached by car from the A13 motorway (exit Ferrara Sud, then SS309 Romea). By train, the nearest station is Ferrara, from which local buses depart. From Bologna it is about 130 km, from Venice about 120 km. An excellent idea is to combine a visit with a bicycle ride along the Po Delta cycling routes, among the most beautiful in Italy.

When to go

Spring (March–May) is perfect for birdwatching and the blossoms. Autumn (September–October) brings extraordinary colours and coincides with the Sagra dell'Anguilla, a not-to-be-missed event. Summer is ideal for those who want to combine culture and beach, and the borgo remains liveable even in August. Winter has a melancholy charm, with the mists that wrap the canals in an almost cinematic atmosphere.

The comparison that matters

A coffee on Piazza San Marco in Venice can cost up to 15 euros with the orchestra surcharge. In Comacchio, the same coffee in a bar in the historic centre overlooking the canals costs little more than one euro. A complete fish lunch rarely exceeds 25–30 euros per person, against the 50–80 euros of an average Venetian restaurant. But the real saving is in terms of experience: in Comacchio you have time to stop, to talk with locals, to wander the lanes without being swept along by the current of a relentless crowd.

Comacchio is not a copy of Venice: it is a place with a strong identity of its own, where water tells different stories, made of fishing, of hard work and of a beauty that needs no Instagram to exist. This is undertourism at its finest.