Via degli Dei: Walking From Bologna to Florence Across the Apennines

A walk through history and nature across the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines

The Via degli Dei is one of Italy's most fascinating walking routes: 130 kilometres linking Bologna to Florence across the Apennines, following tracks with millennia of history behind them. The name derives from the mountains you cross — Monte Adone, Monzuno (from Mons Iovis, mountain of Jupiter), Monte Venere, Monte Luario (from Lua, a Roman goddess) — and the route largely retraces the ancient Roman road Flaminia Militare, whose stone paving still surfaces between the trees.

Unlike other, more celebrated Italian walks, the Via degli Dei offers a rare balance between accessibility and adventure. No climbing skills are required, but you must be prepared to walk six to eight hours a day over varied terrain, with elevation changes that put both legs and lungs to the test.

The classic stages: five days of walking

Stage 1: Bologna – Badolo (25 km)

You set off from the centre of Bologna, from Piazza Maggiore, climbing towards the Sanctuary of San Luca along the celebrated world's longest portico. From here you continue through Casalecchio di Reno and ascend towards the ridge. The first stage is the longest and most demanding in terms of elevation gain (approximately 900 m), but it allows you to leave the city behind and immerse yourself in nature at once. At Badolo there is a welcoming agriturismo where you can rest.

Stage 2: Badolo – Madonna dei Fornelli (20 km)

You cross Monte Adone, with its spectacular badland formations, and continue to Brento. The path alternates between oak and chestnut forests and panoramic clearings. You pass through Monzuno, where a stop at the village bar is obligatory. The elevation gain is approximately 750 m. At Madonna dei Fornelli there are several accommodation options and a small grocery shop for resupply.

Stage 3: Madonna dei Fornelli – San Piero a Sieve (22 km)

The wildest stage: you cross the Passo della Futa, the highest point of the route at 903 m, where the German War Cemetery stands in the silence of the ridge — a place for reflection. You then descend into Tuscany through dense beech forests and high-altitude meadows. The descent is significant (over 700 m downhill). At San Piero a Sieve the Mugello welcomes you with its flavours: potato tortelli and steak.

Stage 4: San Piero a Sieve – Monte di Fò (18 km)

You climb towards Monte Gazzaro through ancient chestnut forests. The path here becomes narrower and more solitary. You walk for a long stretch along the Apennine ridge with views spanning both slopes. At the fork for Monte Senario the detour is worthwhile: the monastery offers an extraordinary view over the valley. Overnight at the Monte di Fò refuge or at the nearby agriturismo.

Stage 5: Monte di Fò – Florence (30 km)

The final stage is long but largely downhill. You cross Bivigliano, descend through Calvana and enter Fiesole, where the panorama over Florence takes your breath away. From there the descent into the centre is an emotional crescendo culminating in Piazza della Signoria. The total descent exceeds 1,000 m, so take care of your knees.

Practical information

Difficulty and preparation

The Via degli Dei is classified E (Hiking). It presents no exposed sections or technical passages, but requires a good baseline level of fitness. The total positive elevation is approximately 3,200 m, negative 3,100 m. Those not used to walking can spread the route over six or seven stages.

Waymarking and navigation

The path is marked with blue dots (the route's symbol) and partly follows CAI trail 019. It is advisable to carry the GPX track downloadable from the official website, especially in the forested sections where signs can be less visible. Mobile coverage is intermittent in some parts of the Apennines.

When to go

• Spring (April-June): the ideal period, forests in flower, mild temperatures. May is perfect.
• Autumn (September-October): excellent, cooler, spectacular foliage, fewer crowds.
• Summer: possible but very hot, especially on the first and last stages.
• Winter: not recommended due to snow and mud at altitude.

What to bring

• Trekking boots with Vibram soles, broken in before departure
• Telescopic walking poles (essential on the descents)
• 35-40 litre backpack with waterproof cover
• Water bottle of at least 1.5 litres (water sources are not frequent)
• Rain jacket and warm layer for evenings at altitude
• First aid kit with blister plasters
• Sunscreen and hat

Water and supplies

Water sources along the route are limited: plan to refill at every village you pass through. Monzuno, Madonna dei Fornelli and San Piero a Sieve have grocery shops and bars. On the intermediate stages it is better to set off with enough supplies for the day.

Where to stay

Along the route you will find agriturismi, B&Bs and refuges. It is essential to book at least a week in advance during the peak months (May and September-October). Costs range from 30 euros for a bed in a refuge to 60-80 euros for a double room in an agriturismo, often with the option of dinner and breakfast.

Why choose the Via degli Dei

This walk is proof that you do not need to travel far for an extraordinary experience. Two iconic art cities linked by a path that crosses through history — from Roman paving stones to medieval boundary markers, from Romanesque churches to abandoned farmhouses. The silence of the Apennines, the scent of the forest after rain, arriving in Florence with tired legs and a full heart: these are sensations that no high-speed train could ever provide.