Durmitor, Balkan high mountains among black lakes and canyons

When you think of Montenegro, the crowded beaches of Kotor and Budva come to mind, with the cruise ships at anchor and the packed seafronts. Yet you need only climb towards the northern interior, around the town of Žabljak, to find yourself in a completely different world: the Durmitor National Park, a plateau of limestone rock, ancient forests and silence. Here the air is cool even in high summer and the meadows fill with flowers instead of sun umbrellas.

The heart of the park is the Crno Jezero, the Black Lake, two connected sheets of water that reflect the black pines and the peaks still streaked with snow. It is reachable in a few minutes on foot from Žabljak and is the ideal starting point for exploring. Those seeking something more demanding will find more than a dozen glacial lakes scattered across the plateau, known locally as "mountain eyes", and trails that climb towards Bobotov Kuk, one of the highest peaks in the country. Do not expect crowded refuges or lifts: the walking is simple and genuine.

A few kilometres away opens the canyon of the river Tara, a gorge carved into the rock, the deepest in Europe, spanned by an imposing arched bridge. The emerald-green waters of the Tara are among the cleanest in Europe and draw those who go rafting, but even just looking out from the edge of the canyon leaves you breathless. Everything here stays on a human scale, far from the mass tourism of the coast.

To enjoy Durmitor without the crowds, it is best to choose late spring or early autumn, when the trails are clear and the colours more intense. Bring sturdy shoes, respect the marked paths and stop in the small guesthouses of Žabljak: supporting the local economy is the best way to keep this mountain corner authentic.

Getting there

Žabljak, the gateway to Durmitor, is reached only by road: there are no railways at altitude. The reference airport is Podgorica, about two and a half to three hours' drive away, while Tivat on the coast is further. There are daily buses from Podgorica and, closer, from Nikšić; by car, the scenic climb up to the plateau is part of the journey.