Where to eat in Massa: between the Apuan Alps and the sea

Massa's position, squeezed between the Apuan Alps and the sea, is reflected directly on the plate. Heading up towards the mountain hamlets (Antona, Pariana, Resceto, Turano), you'll find trattorias more tied to mountain farming tradition, with mushrooms, chestnuts and hearty dishes suited to those hiking or working around the marble quarries. Down towards Marina di Massa, on the seafront, lighter seafood cuisine prevails, geared towards summer visitors.

The historic centre, halfway between the two, offers a good compromise: classic Tuscan-style trattorias, a handy base for those who want to sample both sides of the local cuisine without moving around too much. As in many mid-sized Tuscan towns, the most genuine places are often found away from the main squares, in the residential streets around the centre.