Alta Via dei Monti Lattari: The Amalfi Coast From Above

Above the coast, far from the crowds

While thousands of tourists jostle along the Amalfi State Road amid horns and maneuvering buses, another coast exists entirely: the one seen from above, from the ridge of the Monti Lattari that divides the Gulf of Naples from the Gulf of Salerno. The Alta Via dei Monti Lattari is an approximately 80-kilometer trek that crosses this limestone spine from Cava de' Tirreni to Punta Campanella, offering panoramas that no restaurant terrace, however starred, could ever rival.

It's a trail for experienced hikers, with exposed sections and passages on rock, but the reward is immense: Vesuvius on the horizon, Capri rising from the sea, terraced lemon groves descending toward the waves, and above all, silence — a luxury now impossible to find on the coast below.

The stages of the Alta Via

Stage 1: Cava de' Tirreni – Valico di Chiunzi (15 km)

You set off from the Benedictine Abbey of the SS. Trinità and climb quickly toward Monte Finestra (1,138 m). The elevation gain is demanding (over 1,000 m of ascent) but the summit view repays every drop of sweat: the eye ranges from the Piana del Sele to the Gulf of Naples. You descend to the Valico di Chiunzi, where a historic trattoria serves local traditional dishes. Difficulty: EE.

Stage 2: Valico di Chiunzi – Monte Sant'Angelo a Tre Pizzi (14 km)

The most demanding stage of the entire route. You climb toward the highest peak in the Lattari range (1,444 m), Monte Sant'Angelo a Tre Pizzi, named for its three summits. The path is exposed in places and requires sure-footedness. From the top, on clear days, the Pontine Islands are visible. The positive elevation gain exceeds 1,200 m. Difficulty: EE, with short Grade I rock sections.

Stage 3: Tre Pizzi – Agerola (12 km)

Descent toward Agerola through Monte Cervigliano and the Sella di Caporivoli. The path crosses beech and chestnut forests that explode with colour in autumn. Agerola is the balcony over the coast: a plateau at 600 m above the sea with an exceptional cheese-making tradition (the provolone del Monaco and fior di latte are non-negotiable). This is where you resupply and rest.

Stage 4: Agerola – Positano via Monte Tre Calli (18 km)

The high-altitude variant of the celebrated Sentiero degli Dei. Instead of following the lower tourist path, you climb toward Monte Tre Calli (1,122 m) for a completely different experience: no crowds, even wider panoramas, and the sensation of being suspended between sky and sea. The descent toward Positano is steep and technical, with steps carved into the rock and sheer drops — vertigo strictly forbidden.

Stage 5: Positano – Punta Campanella (20 km)

The final stage crosses the Sorrento Peninsula from the south, passing through Praiano and the Baia di Ieranto, a FAI nature reserve with turquoise waters. You arrive at Punta Campanella, the tip of the peninsula where a temple to Athena once stood. Capri is a stone's throw away, dolphins are not uncommon. The final descent to the bay is a worthy conclusion to the journey.

Practical information

Difficulty

The route is rated EE (Experienced Hikers) with Grade I alpine sections. It is not a trail for beginners: the elevation changes are significant (up to 1,200 m in a single stage), the paths often exposed, and some passages require careful attention and confident footwork. The total positive elevation gain exceeds 4,500 m.

Waymarking and route

The route follows CAI trail 300 and its variants. Waymarking is generally good but can be confusing at intersections. Carrying an up-to-date GPX track is essential. In fog — common at altitude, especially in autumn — some sections become treacherous.

When to go

• April–May: ideal period, spectacular wildflowers, perfect temperatures. Long days.
• October–November: excellent for foliage and golden light. Watch for autumn rains that make limestone paths slippery.
• Summer: not recommended due to extreme heat and lack of water at altitude.
• Winter: possible on the lower stages, but snow and ice on the high ridges.

Essential equipment

• Trekking boots with rigid soles and good grip on limestone
• Telescopic poles (essential on steep descents)
• Light helmet for the most exposed sections (recommended)
• At least 2 litres of water per stage (springs almost absent at altitude)
• Strong sun protection: south-facing exposure is total
• Windproof jacket: on the ridge the wind can be strong and sudden

Water and resupply

Lack of water is the main challenge of this trek. At altitude, springs are extremely rare and often dry by late spring. Plan resupply at each village (Chiunzi, Agerola, Positano). Carry purification tablets for the few uncontrolled sources.

A trek that changes your perspective

Walking the Alta Via dei Monti Lattari means overturning your idea of the Amalfi Coast. From below, it's a succession of luxury hotels, crowded restaurants and gridlocked roads. From above, it's a mountain that plunges into the Mediterranean with a geological violence that takes your breath away. This is the coast that tourists never see — and perhaps the truest coast of all.