The Secret Path of the Gods: Agerola to Positano via Monte Tre Calli

The Path of the Gods that nobody knows

The classic Sentiero degli Dei has become a victim of its own success: in high season it is an unbroken queue of hikers in single file, complete with one-way restrictions imposed by the municipality of Agerola to manage pedestrian traffic. But an alternative exists that few know, and which paradoxically deserves the name "Path of the Gods" even more: the high variant, which instead of hugging the mountainside at 500 m climbs all the way to the summit of Monte Tre Calli at 1,122 m, offering a 360-degree panorama the lower path can only dream of.

It is not a trail for everyone: it demands strong legs and some hiking experience. But those who take it on are rewarded with one of the most intense trekking experiences in southern Italy.

The route: from Bomerano to the summit and down to Positano

The start from Bomerano

The starting point is the same as the classic trail: Bomerano, a hamlet of Agerola at 630 m above sea level. It is reachable by SITA bus from Amalfi or by car (free parking at the sports ground). From the square you follow signs for the Sentiero degli Dei, but at the first junction — well signposted — you bear right and head upward rather than left toward the hillside path.

The ascent to Monte Tre Calli

The path climbs purposefully through abandoned terraces where lemons and vines were once cultivated. The vegetation changes quickly: from Mediterranean scrub to holm oak and then to sparse highland shrubs. The trail is well defined but narrow, with some passages on limestone rock steps that require care.

After approximately 2 hours of sustained climbing (500 m of elevation gain from the start), you reach the ridge of Monte Tre Calli. The name — Tre Calli — may derive from the Greek "kalòs" (beautiful): three beautiful summits. And indeed the panorama from the top is among the most spectacular in all of Campania. To the north the Gulf of Naples with Vesuvius, to the south the Gulf of Salerno stretching to Punta Licosa, to the west Capri rising from the sea like a mirage, and far below, the rooftops of Positano seeming to slide toward the waves.

The ridge traverse

The most exhilarating stretch of the route is the traverse along the summit ridge. You walk an airy crest with open air on both sides — north toward Agerola, south toward the sea. The path is exposed but not dangerous if you stay on the trail. On windy days caution is essential. This section, roughly 3 km long, is what justifies the trail's name: you walk truly between sky and sea, suspended like gods.

The descent toward Nocelle and Positano

From the southern flank of Tre Calli the descent toward Nocelle begins — a tiny hamlet of Positano accessible only on foot (or by a very intrepid minibus). The path drops steeply through holm oak forest and then through terraced vegetable gardens and lemon groves. The descent is long (900 m of negative elevation) and demanding on the knees: poles are essential.

At Nocelle you rejoin the classic Sentiero degli Dei route. From here two options: descend to Positano via the long staircase (1,700 steps down to Arienzo, the least touristy beach) or take the path leading to Montepertuso, where a bus descends to central Positano.

Trail stats

• Distance: 14 km (Bomerano – Positano beach)
• Positive elevation: approximately 600 m
• Negative elevation: approximately 1,500 m
• Walking time: 6–7 hours
• Difficulty: EE (Experienced Hikers)
• Waymarking: CAI 327 (red-white blazes)

Practical information

When to go

• March–May: ideal period. Spectacular wildflowers, perfect temperatures, long days.
• October–November: excellent for light and colours. Shorter days.
• Summer: not recommended. Heat on the ridge is relentless and there is no water.
• Winter: possible on clear days, but the ridge can be icy and very windy.

What to bring

• Trekking boots with grip on limestone (no smooth soles)
• Telescopic poles (indispensable on the long descent)
• At least 2 litres of water (no springs along the entire route)
• Sun protection and hat (total exposure on the ridge)
• Windproof jacket (wind on the ridge can be strong even in spring)
• Food: there are no refreshment points until Nocelle

How to return

From Positano you return to Agerola by SITA bus (departures every 1–2 hours; check seasonal timetables). Alternatively, the Positano–Amalfi ferry and then the bus to Agerola. Those who left a car at Bomerano need to factor the return journey into the day's planning.

Safety

Do not underestimate this route. The exposed ridge, the overall length, and the significant negative elevation gain all demand experience and good fitness. Do not set out in bad weather or with storm forecasts — on the ridge, lightning is a real risk. Start early (7–8 am) to allow time in hand and catch the best light.

The variant that surpasses the original

The classic Sentiero degli Dei is beautiful, but it has become a tourist product. The high variant via Monte Tre Calli is still a real trail: sweat, effort, panoramas earned step by step, and above all solitude — that luxury which on the Amalfi Coast has become rarer than coral.