Where to eat in Reggio Emilia: in the cradle of Parmigiano Reggiano
Guide on where to eat in Reggio Emilia: cappelletti in broth, erbazzone, Parmigiano Reggiano, Lambrusco and historic trattorias. Tips for eating well.
Reggio Emilia: where taste is serious business
Reggio Emilia is the heart of gastronomic Emilia, the city where Parmigiano Reggiano was born and where cooking is a matter of civic pride. Less touristy than Bologna and Parma, Reggio offers the same extraordinary food quality at lower prices, with trattorias where the sfogline still roll pasta by hand and Lambrusco flows freely at every meal.
Local specialities you must try
Cappelletti in brodo are Reggio's Sunday dish: small pasta parcels filled with meat, served in a crystalline capon broth. Erbazzone, a rustic savoury pie with chard, Parmigiano and onion, is Reggio's ultimate comfort food.
Gnocco fritto, puffy and crisp, served with cured meats (prosciutto crudo, coppa, culatello) and cheeses, is the Emilian aperitivo-dinner. Pumpkin tortelli, sweet and fragrant with amaretti and mostarda, are the autumn speciality. Parmigiano Reggiano aged 24, 36 or over 40 months is an experience in itself.
Cured meats and cheeses
Prosciutto di Parma DOP and coppa piacentina arrive from neighbouring provinces. Culatello di Zibello is the king of Emilian cured meats. Mountain Parmigiano Reggiano, made on Apennine pastures, has a more complex, intense flavour than its lowland counterpart.
Where to eat: best restaurants and trattorias
Trattoria La Brace
A Reggio institution in the old town. Perfect cappelletti in brodo, bollito misto with salsa verde and gnocco fritto worth the trip. Warm, family atmosphere; booking advised.
Caffè Arti e Mestieri
Under the arcades, it offers modern Emilian cuisine with deep roots. A seasonal menu, excellent fresh pasta firsts and a well-curated wine list with an Emilia focus.
Osteria Il Pozzo
Outside the centre, popular with true Reggiani. Uncompromising traditional cooking: crispy erbazzone, tagliatelle al ragu and succulent roasts. Popular prices.
Ristorante Canossa
Emilian cuisine reimagined with elegance in a historic palazzo. A tasting menu that showcases the territory's DOP products, attentive service and a serious cellar.
Da Vitto
A family trattoria with a garden, specialising in gnocco fritto and tigelle with cured meats. Emilian abundance at its best, with generous portions and a light bill.
Street food and quick bites
Erbazzone shops in the centre sell slices of warm erbazzone for 2-3 euros, perfect for a snack. Gnocco fritto stalls are everywhere. At the Mercato Coperto you will find Parmigiano Reggiano counters, hand-sliced prosciutto and other Emilian delicacies for a self-assembled lunch.
Wines
Lambrusco reggiano is the city's emblematic wine: a sparkling red, dry or off-dry, perfect with cured meats and the rich Emilian cuisine. Lambrusco di Sorbara, more delicate and rosé, is the refined alternative. Sparkling Malvasia, an aromatic white, pairs well with pumpkin tortelli. Do not miss Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, more structured and full-bodied.
Budget tips
- Erbazzone from a bakery costs 2-3 euros a slice and makes a substantial meal.
- Trattorias outside the centre offer daily menus for 12-15 euros, Lambrusco included.
- The Mercato Coperto is perfect for a top-quality packed lunch.
- Visit a Parmigiano Reggiano dairy: tasting is often included in the tour.
- Reggio costs 20-30 per cent less than Bologna for the same gastronomic quality.
