What to see in Reggio Emilia in 2 days: the Tricolore, Parmigiano and contemporary art
Guide on what to see in Reggio Emilia in 2 days: historic squares, unexpected museums, Calatrava's Mediopadana station and Emilian gastronomic excellence.
Why visit Reggio Emilia in 2 days
Reggio Emilia is the city where the Italian Tricolore flag was born, but that is only the beginning. Squeezed between Parma and Modena, it is often skipped by travellers who have no idea what they are missing: a compact, harmonious old town, surprising museums, cutting-edge contemporary architecture and a gastronomic tradition that rivals its more famous neighbours. Two days are perfect to discover this hidden Emilian pearl.
Day 1: the old town and the Tricolore story
Morning - The squares and the Tricolore
Begin at Piazza Prampolini, the city's drawing room, with the Romanesque Cathedral and the octagonal Baptistery. Next to them stands the Palazzo del Monte with its Renaissance facade. Move to nearby Piazza San Prospero, dominated by the Basilica of San Prospero with its red marble lions on the steps and octagonal tower.
Reach the Sala del Tricolore in the former Town Hall: here on 7 January 1797 the Italian flag was born, adopted by the Cispadane Republic. The adjoining museum tells the story of the national symbol through original documents. Entry is free and the place has an emotional intensity that surprises.
Afternoon - Civic Museums and Teatro Valli
The Civic Museums, in the Palazzo dei Musei, are a revelation: the Roman mosaic collection, the natural history section with the celebrated Spallanzani collection and the picture gallery with works from the 14th to the 20th century. All displayed in a modern, well-curated setting.
Visit the Teatro Municipale Romolo Valli, a Neoclassical jewel from 1857 where Verdi and Puccini saw the premieres of their masterpieces. If a performance is scheduled, buy a ticket: the acoustics are exceptional.
Then lose yourself in the Ghetto, the old Jewish quarter with its eighteenth-century synagogue and narrow lanes that retain an intimate atmosphere.
Evening
Dine with erbazzone (savoury chard pie), cappelletti in brodo and a slice of 36-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano, the king of cheeses born right here. Pair with a fizzy Lambrusco reggiano: a perfect match.
Day 2: contemporary architecture and flavours
Morning - Mediopadana Station and Reggio Children
Devote the morning to contemporary architecture. The Mediopadana High-Speed Station, designed by Santiago Calatrava, is a white wave of steel and glass crossing the countryside: photograph it from outside walking the 483-metre walkway.
Back in the centre, visit the Cloisters of San Pietro, a monumental Renaissance complex restored to host temporary exhibitions and the Tecnopolo. The empty spaces of the cloisters and refectories are pure architecture. If travelling with children, the Loris Malaguzzi International Centre showcases the Reggio Emilia educational approach, famous worldwide.
Afternoon - Cheese dairies and Reggio countryside
No stay in Reggio is complete without visiting a Parmigiano Reggiano dairy. Several producers in the surrounding countryside offer guided tours with tastings (book in advance). Watching 40-kg wheels age in warehouses for years is a unique sensory experience.
On the way back, stop at the Mauriziano, the country villa where Ludovico Ariosto spent his childhood. The park is an oasis of peace with a literary aura.
Hidden gems
Seek out the Collezione Maramotti, a private museum of international contemporary art housed in a former Max Mara factory on the outskirts. Works by Basquiat, Richter and Kiefer in industrial spaces: a secret art lovers must not miss. Free visit by appointment.
Evening
A final aperitivo under the arcades of Via Emilia, watching Reggio life pass by. Take home a piece of Parmigiano and a bottle of Lambrusco as perfect souvenirs.
Practical tips
- **When to go:** year-round; spring and autumn for the countryside
- **Getting there:** Mediopadana high-speed station (Milan-Bologna line), central station (regional trains)
- **Getting around:** compact, pedestrian centre; bus or car for countryside and dairies
- **Parmigiano:** dairies usually only open for visits early morning (cheese-making starts at 4 a.m.)
- **Collezione Maramotti:** booking required, closed Monday and Tuesday
- **Budget:** affordable compared to more touristy neighbours
