Where to eat in Positano: lemons, seafood and Amalfi Coast cuisine

Local specialties and traditional dishes

Positano, the Mediterranean's most fascinating vertical village, offers a cuisine perfumed with lemon, flavoured with the sea, and infused with the generosity of Campanian tradition. The Amalfi Coast is a territory where the table is art, and every meal is a celebration.

Among first courses, scialatielli ai frutti di mare is the gastronomic symbol of the Coast: fresh wide ribbon pasta, made with flour, milk, basil and pecorino in the dough, dressed with clams, mussels, prawns and Vesuvio cherry tomatoes. Paccheri allo scoglio, spaghetti with Cetara anchovies, and stuffed squid complete an unforgettable panorama of seafood first courses.

Fish is the absolute star of main courses: acqua pazza (fish in a light broth with cherry tomatoes, olives and capers), the golden crispy frittura di paranza, and polpo alla luciana (with tomato, olives and parsley). Parmigiana di melanzane, here prepared with DOP Campana buffalo mozzarella, is the side dish that becomes a main course.

Best trattorias and osterias

Positano develops vertically, from the main road down to the beach. The most exclusive restaurants are found along the main descent and on Fornillo beach, with prices reflecting the position. The most authentic and affordable trattorias are hidden in the side alleys and stepped lanes.

Family trattorias in the upper part of the village, along the paths leading to Montepertuso and Nocelle, offer home cooking with breathtaking views at decidedly lower prices. This is where residents go to eat on Sundays.

Beachside restaurants offer a unique experience: feet in the sand, sound of waves, and a plate of freshly caught fish. Book well in advance during summer.

The lemon kitchen

The Positano lemon (sfusato amalfitano IGP) is the cross-cutting ingredient of local cuisine. You will find it in risottos, salads, desserts, and of course in limoncello. The delizia al limone - sponge cake, lemon cream and glaze - is the Coast's dessert par excellence. Restaurants often offer a small glass of homemade limoncello at the end of the meal.

Street food and snacks

In the shops along the descent you will find sandwiches with buffalo mozzarella and cherry tomatoes, sfogliatelle (ricce or frolle, filled with ricotta and semolina), pizza al taglio, and cuoppo di fritto (a paper cone with mixed fried fish and vegetables).

Lemon granita is the perfect refreshment during your walk: fresh, tart and sweet in just the right measure. Pastry shops sell single-portion delizie al limone, rum baba, and pastiera, the Neapolitan ricotta and cooked-wheat tart.

Local wines

Amalfi Coast wines are jewels of heroic viticulture, produced on terraces plunging into the sea. Furore Bianco DOC, from Falanghina and Biancolella grapes, is a mineral and savoury white, perfect with fish. Furore Rosso, from Piedirosso and Aglianico, accompanies meats and cheeses.

Ravello Rosato is the more quaffable alternative for summer evenings. Some restaurants offer coastal wine tastings with boards of local products.

Markets and local products

Positano does not have a large market, but the food shops along the descent sell excellent products: artisanal limoncello, sfusato lemons, cherry tomato preserves, Cetara anchovy colatura (the ancient fish sauce, ancestor of Roman garum), and Gragnano pasta.

For purchases at more reasonable prices, head down to Amalfi or up to Praiano, where shops are less touristy. Limoncello producers along the road between Positano and Amalfi offer free tastings.

Budget tips

Positano is among the most expensive destinations in Italy. To eat well without breaking the bank, follow these tips. Have lunch rather than dinner at panoramic restaurants: many offer cheaper lunch menus. Seek out trattorias in the upper part of the village, where a seafood first course costs 12-16 euros instead of the 20-25 charged by beachside venues.

Street food is the budget ally: a sfogliatella costs 3-4 euros, a cuoppo di fritto 6-8 euros. Buy focaccia, mozzarella and tomatoes from the shops and eat on a bench with a view.

Avoid the beach-view terraces for your main meal: enjoy them with an aperitivo (8-12 euros) at sunset. Consider eating in Praiano or Amalfi for more affordable dinners.