Where to eat in Aosta: fondue, carbonade and mountain flavours

Aosta: mountain cuisine in the heart of the Alps

Aosta is a small Alpine capital where gastronomy tells centuries of adaptation to mountain life. Surrounded by four-thousand-metre peaks, this city with its surprising Roman heritage (Arch of Augustus, theatre, city walls) offers robust, warm cuisine perfumed with fontina, chestnuts and game. A culinary experience unlike any other Italian region.

Must-try local dishes

Valdostan fondue is the iconic dish: Fontina DOP melted with butter, milk and egg yolks, served with dark bread croutons or polenta. Carbonade is a beef stew marinated in red wine with spices, slow-cooked and served with polenta. Polenta concia (dressed with melted fontina and butter) is a one-dish meal that warms winter evenings.

Other unmissable dishes: seupetta alla valpellinentze (cabbage, fontina and stale bread soup baked au gratin), mocetta (dried chamois or beef), Lardo d'Arnad DOP, Valdostan-style cutlets (breaded and stuffed with fontina and ham).

For desserts, the tegola (thin almond biscuit) and crema di Cogne (chocolate panna cotta with genepy).

Best areas for eating

The Roman historic centre

Via Porta Praetoria, via Sant'Anselmo and the squares between the Roman theatre and the Praetorian Gate concentrate restaurants and osterias in historic stone-vaulted buildings. Here you'll find the most authentic Valdostan cuisine, from fixed lunch menus to elaborate dinners with wine pairings.

Via Aubert and Cathedral area

The area around the cathedral and the Sant'Orso cloister hosts more intimate, refined establishments. Wine bars serving boards of mocetta, lardo d'Arnad and toma with mountain honey, paired with Valdostan wines (Petit Rouge, Fumin, Torrette).

Peripheral Porossan and Saint-Martin-de-Corléans

Outside the centre, inns and agriturismos offer complete mountain menus at lower prices. Ideal for seeking the chalet experience without leaving the city. Generous portions, fireplace in winter, panoramic terrace in summer.

Recommended trattorias and osterias

• Historic centre osterias serve complete Valdostan menus (mixed starter, polenta or soup first course, carbonade or game second, dessert) for 30-40 euros, wine included.
• Via Aubert wine bars offer lighter dishes: boards, soups, salads with walnuts and toma, accompanied by glasses of local wines at 4-6 euros.
• Out-of-town inns have weekday lunch menus at 18-22 euros with first, second, side and coffee.

Street food and markets

The covered market in piazza Cavalieri di Vittorio Veneto runs Tuesday and Saturday mornings: stalls of alpine fontina, toma, Valdostan cured meats and honey. Some stalls sell sandwiches with mocetta and fontina perfect for lunch.

For street food, look for kiosks selling miasse (corn flour crepes) filled with fontina and lard during markets and festivals. Boulangeries along via Sant'Anselmo prepare rye dark bread and walnut focaccia to take away.

Budget tips

• A Valdostan board with mocetta, lardo, toma and honey costs 10-14 euros and is a substantial meal.
• Weekday lunch menus at trattorias outside the centre cost 15-20 euros all-inclusive.
• Agricultural cooperatives on the outskirts sell alpine fontina at half the price of centre shops.
• The caffè valdostano (from the grolla, with grappa, genepy and spices) is shared in groups: 15-20 euros for 4-6 people.
• Valdostan wines by the carafe cost less than bottled and are often excellent.

Unique food experiences

Join the grolla dell'amicizia ceremony at a traditional restaurant: Valdostan coffee is drunk from the spout of a carved wooden cup passed hand to hand. In summer, climb to an alpine pasture above Aosta for a high-altitude lunch with fontina made that very day and polenta on a wood fire. In winter, don't miss the Fiera di Sant'Orso (late January) where food stalls offer all the region's specialities.

Complete your trip to Aosta

Also discover Where to stay in Aosta for perfect accommodation, What to see in Aosta in 2 days for an itinerary through Roman ruins and mountains, and How to get to Aosta to plan your journey.