Where to Stay in Varenna: Lake Como Lodgings Away from the Crowds
Guide on where to stay in Varenna: lakeside hotels, B&Bs in the fishing village, residences with gardens, and tips for an authentic Lake Como stay.
Varenna: The Authentic Alternative to Bellagio on Lake Como
While Bellagio and Como city attract crowds of tourists, Varenna remains an authentic fishing village on the eastern shore of Lake Como. Colourful houses reflected in the lake, narrow lanes with flower-lined stairways, the lakeside walkway (the lovers' promenade), and two extraordinary historic gardens: Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi. Staying in Varenna means experiencing Lake Como as it was before mass tourism.
The village is conveniently reachable by train from Milan (one hour on the Lecco-Tirano line, changing at Lecco) and by the ferry connecting the three jewels of the central lake: Varenna, Bellagio, and Menaggio. This central position makes it a perfect base for exploring the entire lake.
Best Areas to Stay
Old Village and Lakeside Walkway
The heart of Varenna, between the little piazza of San Giorgio and the small harbour. Lodgings here often have terraces or windows looking directly onto the lake, with views of the mountains on the opposite shore. The location is ideal: steps from restaurants, the ferry pier, and the gardens of Villa Monastero.
Station Area and Upper Part
The upper part of the village, around the railway station, offers more affordable lodgings with panoramic lake views from above. The descent to the village takes just a few minutes along a picturesque stairway. Convenient for those arriving by train.
Fiumelatte and Surroundings
The hamlet south of Varenna, famous for Italy's shortest river (250 metres). Here you will find some properties set in greenery with private gardens and lake access. Quieter than the centre, ideal for those seeking total relaxation.
Types of Accommodation
Hotels with Lake Views
Varenna has historic hotels with terraces directly on the water, where breakfast is taken watching boats cross the lake. Properties range from small family hotels to period residences with Italian gardens. Prices range from 100 to 300 euros per night depending on the season and the view.
B&Bs and Guesthouses
B&Bs run by Varenna families are the best choice for those wanting to know local life. Owners recommend less-trodden paths, restaurants where residents eat, and the best times to visit the villas without crowds. Breakfasts include homemade cakes, Valsassina cheeses, and local honey.
Apartments with Gardens
For longer stays, apartments offer the chance to cook with produce from Varenna's market and live the village as a resident. Some have private gardens with direct lake access.
Budget Tips
- Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) offer perfect weather, gardens in bloom, and prices 30-40% lower than summer
- Varenna is less expensive than Bellagio and Como for comparable quality lodgings
- The train from Milan is affordable and scenic: avoid driving, as parking in Varenna is extremely limited
- Dining at trattorias in the old village costs less than at restaurants with lakeside terraces
Unique Stays
Some properties have rooms with balconies over the water where you fall asleep to the gentle sound of the lake lapping against the stone. Villa Cipressi, one of the most beautiful botanical gardens on the lake, also houses a hotel where you sleep surrounded by centuries-old cypresses and flowering terraces descending towards the water. At Fiumelatte, you can stay in houses just metres from Italy's shortest river, a natural phenomenon that intrigued Leonardo da Vinci.
For those who love walking, some B&Bs in the upper part offer direct access to the Sentiero del Viandante, the ancient path that runs along the lake from Lecco to Colico through chestnut woods and with breathtaking views.
How Long to Stay
Two nights are ideal for exploring Varenna and taking a boat trip to Bellagio and Menaggio. With three nights you can add the gardens of Villa Monastero, a walk on the Sentiero del Viandante, and a visit to Lecco. Varenna is the perfect base for the central lake.
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Practical info
When is the best time to visit Where to Stay in Varenna?
The recommended time is April, May, June, September and October, when it is less crowded.