What to see in Varenna in 2 days: itinerary through gardens, villas and Lake Como
Guide on what to see in Varenna in 2 days: Villa Monastero, Villa Cipressi, Lovers' Walk, Vezio Castle, Bellagio and Lake Como.
Why visit Varenna in 2 days
Varenna is Lake Como's discreet jewel. While Bellagio draws the crowds and Como claims the international fame, this fishing village on the eastern shore preserves a quiet and intimate charm. Villas with botanical gardens overlooking the water, steep lanes descending to the lake, the colours of the houses reflected in the calm waters: everything in Varenna invites slowness. Two days are the perfect time to enjoy it.
Day 1: the village and the villas
Morning: Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi
Begin with Villa Monastero, Varenna's pearl. Built on the foundations of a Cistercian convent, the villa houses a botanical garden stretching nearly a kilometre along the lakeshore. The main avenue is flanked by statues, small temples, citrus trees and exotic plants, with continuous views over the water and the mountains on the opposite shore. The villa's interior, open to visitors, preserves eclectic furnishings and decorated ceilings.
Right next door, Villa Cipressi offers another terraced garden descending towards the lake amid centuries-old cypresses and roses. Smaller and more intimate than Villa Monastero, it has a romantic and secluded atmosphere.
Afternoon: Lovers' Walk and the centre
After lunch, walk the Passeggiata degli Innamorati (Lovers' Walk), the pedestrian path running along the lake from the ferry dock to Villa Monastero. The walkway is narrow, suspended between the rocks and the water, with benches inviting contemplation.
Climb back into the village centre and visit the Church of San Giorgio, with its Romanesque facade and fourteenth-century frescoes inside. The little piazza in front, with the war memorial and the lake view, is Varenna's heart. Climb the steep alleys towards the upper part: the coloured houses, small stairways and hidden courtyards have a genuine charm.
Evening: sunset from the pier
Sunset from Varenna's pier is one of Lake Como's magical moments. The sun descends behind the mountains on the western shore, painting the water pink and orange.
Day 2: Vezio Castle and Bellagio
Morning: Vezio Castle
Walk up to Vezio Castle, the medieval fortress dominating Varenna from above. The trail starts from the village centre and in 20 minutes through olive groves and woods reaches the stronghold. From the tower and bastions the view is unrivalled: the entire Lecco branch of the lake, the Bellagio peninsula and snow-capped mountains unfold below.
The castle often hosts falconry displays and temporary exhibitions. The white plaster ghost figures placed along the walls are an atmospheric scenic touch.
Afternoon: ferry to Bellagio
Take the ferry to Bellagio; the crossing lasts just 15 minutes and offers a unique perspective on the lake. Bellagio, the pearl of Lake Como, deserves at least a couple of hours: the tip of Spartivento with its view over the two branches of the lake, the wisteria-bordered stairways and the artisan shops in the centre are the main stops.
If time allows, the gardens of Villa Melzi, open to the public, are a masterpiece of Romantic landscaping with azaleas, water lilies and a neo-Gothic chapel overlooking the water.
Evening: return and lakeside dinner
Return to Varenna on the last ferry and end with a lakeside dinner, tasting lavarello, Lake Como's typical whitefish, prepared in carpione or grilled.
Viewpoints not to miss
- Vezio Castle: bird's-eye view over the entire Lecco branch
- Lovers' Walk: close-up glimpses of the water
- Varenna pier: sunset over the western mountains
- Punta Spartivento in Bellagio: where the lake splits in two
Secret corners
- The stairway from the Church of San Giorgio up towards Vezio, with hidden panoramas
- The small ancient washhouse beneath the main piazza
- The path along the Esino torrent, above the village
- The pebble beach below Villa Monastero, hidden among the rocks
Practical tips
Varenna is easily reached by train from Milan (Lecco-Sondrio line, Varenna-Esino-Perledo stop). The village is small and walkable, but there are many stairs: comfortable shoes are essential. Ferries to Bellagio run frequently. In summer book lakeside restaurants in advance. Villa Monastero closes in winter: check opening times.
