What to see in Cuneo in 2 days: elegant arcades, majestic Alps and Piedmontese flavours
Guide on what to see in Cuneo in 2 days: historic arcades, huge square, Alpine valleys, Piedmontese gastronomy and hidden corners of a little-visited city.
Why visit Cuneo in 2 days
Cuneo is one of Piedmont's most underrated cities. Set on a wedge-shaped plateau between the Stura and Gesso rivers, with the Maritime Alps as a permanent backdrop, it offers a quality of life you can feel at every turn: long arcades, immense squares, outstanding gastronomy and Alpine valleys within easy reach. Two days are ideal to discover the city and its surroundings.
Day 1: the city and its arcades
Morning - Piazza Galimberti and the centre
Start from Piazza Galimberti, one of the largest squares in Italy: a 200-metre rectangle surrounded by nineteenth-century buildings with elegant arcades. On Tuesday mornings the market fills it with colours and aromas. On clear days, the Alpine backdrop behind the rooftops is a breathtaking sight.
Walk along Via Roma beneath the arcades: almost a kilometre of covered strolling with historic shops, pastry shops and cafes. The Palazzo della Torre, at the crossroads with Contrada Mondovi, is a medieval building with a square tower rising among the rooftops.
Afternoon - Contrada Mondovi and the San Francesco complex
Descend into Contrada Mondovi, the oldest quarter of the city, with low, narrow medieval arcades quite different from those on Via Roma. The atmosphere here feels almost Provencal.
The San Francesco Monumental Complex houses the Civic Museum: a deconsecrated Gothic church with fourteenth-century frescoes and collections spanning archaeology to sacred art. The cloister is one of the quietest corners of the city.
Walk up to Viale degli Angeli, the tree-lined promenade of lime trees leading to the Sanctuary of the Angels, about 2 km away. The walk is beloved by locals and offers views of the Maritime Alps.
Evening
Dine under the arcades with traditional dishes: tajarin with ragu, ravioli al plin and brasato al Barolo. Do not forget the cuneesi al rhum, the famous chocolate treats born here in 1923, to enjoy at your favourite pastry shop.
Day 2: Alpine valleys and hidden gems
Morning - Gesso Valley and Valdieri Spa
Head to the Gesso Valley, the gateway to the Maritime Alps Natural Park. In 40 minutes by car you reach the Royal Spa of Valdieri, frequented by the House of Savoy in the 19th century. The sulphurous springs emerge at 63 degrees and the mountain scenery is magnificent. Trails of all levels depart from here, from easy woodland loops to climbs towards alpine lakes.
If you prefer to stay near the city, the Gesso and Stura River Park offers 40 km of cycle paths and riverside trails, accessible on foot from the centre.
Afternoon - Borgo San Dalmazzo and hidden gems
On the way back, stop at Borgo San Dalmazzo on the outskirts of Cuneo. The Abbey of San Dalmazzo, founded in the 7th century, is one of the oldest religious sites in Piedmont. The Deportation Memorial commemorates the 357 Jews interned here in 1943: a moving and little-known place of remembrance.
Back in Cuneo, seek out the Church of Santa Croce, with its concave facade designed by Francesco Gallo, one of the masterpieces of Piedmontese Baroque hidden on a side street. The Covered Market, in Rationalist style, is another characteristic spot to buy alpine cheeses and cured meats.
Evening
Finish with an aperitivo in Piazza Galimberti at sunset, when the Alps turn pink. Try a craft beer from one of Cuneo's many microbreweries, a surprising scene for a provincial city.
Practical tips
- **When to go:** May-June and September-October; winter for skiing in the valleys
- **Getting there:** train from Turin (about 1h20), car via A33 or A6
- **Getting around:** centre on foot; car needed for the valleys
- **Market:** Tuesday and Friday mornings in Piazza Galimberti
- **Cuneesi al rhum:** buy them from artisan pastry shops, not the industrial versions
- **Weather:** temperatures cooler than the plain thanks to the altitude (534 m)