Instead of Montmartre: Lyon's Croix-Rousse, Traboules and Silk
The Croix-Rousse hill in Lyon is the bohemian quarter Montmartre used to be: secret passageways, artists' studios and genuinely local street life.
Jul 5, 2026France off the beaten track is made of medieval villages in the Aveyron and the Perigord, villages of the Auvergne among extinct volcanoes, the wild coasts of Brittany and the trails of the Cevennes. Far from crowded Paris and the French Riviera, here village markets, silent castles and untouched nature await you. Set off to discover them.
29 guides in Francia · 🛏 Dove dormire in Francia
The Croix-Rousse hill in Lyon is the bohemian quarter Montmartre used to be: secret passageways, artists' studios and genuinely local street life.
Jul 5, 2026
Pérouges is a walled medieval borgo thirty minutes from Lyon: polished cobblestones, watchtowers and the celebrated butter galette.
Jul 5, 2026
Salers is a lava-stone borgo deep in the Auvergne volcanoes: medieval towers, mountain-pasture cheese and an ancient silence.
Jul 5, 2026
An emerald alpine lake, flower-strewn canals, and mountains mirrored in the water. Annecy is France at its most romantic — without the Parisian crowds.
Jul 5, 2026
Two rivers, a UNESCO Renaissance quarter and the most celebrated cuisine in France. Lyon is grandeur without the tourist arrogance of Paris.
Jul 5, 2026
In the wild heart of the Auvergne, the Gorges de la Truyère are green, winding gorges of water, viaducts and silence, in the Cantal.
Jun 21, 2026
Dinan is a living medieval Breton city with half-timbered houses, walkable ramparts and a river port on the Rance — Brittany at its most authentic.
Jul 5, 2026
Locronan is a granite Breton borgo frozen at the Renaissance: a perfect square, sailcloth weavers and a ready-made film set.
Jul 5, 2026
What to see in Paris instead of the Eiffel Tower: Roman amphitheatres, cast-iron churches, flowery lanes and corners of France with no queues.
Jun 29, 2026
In Paris, in the 9th arrondissement, a neo-Gothic church with 44 blue, red and green cast-iron columns and no bell tower. History, stained glass, how to get there.
Jun 28, 2026
In the 13th arrondissement of Paris, the Cité Florale: six flower-named lanes, Art Deco cottages and wisteria, born in 1928 on a marsh of the Bièvre.
Jun 28, 2026
At 16 rue Chaptal, Ary Scheffer's hôtel with its courtyard and garden. George Sand mementoes, a free collection and a tea room in Pigalle.
Jun 28, 2026
The Gallo-Roman amphitheatre of the 1st century, Paris's oldest monument, behind an entranceway at 49 rue Monge. Free admission.
Jun 28, 2026
Collioure is the Mediterranean borgo that Matisse and Derain painted for its extraordinary light: coloured houses, anchovies and sea without the Cinque Terre crush.
Jul 5, 2026
Cordes-sur-Ciel is a Gothic bastide that seems to float above the Tarn mists: a perfect alternative to Rocamadour, steeped in medieval craft.
Jul 5, 2026
Najac stretches along a rocky ridge above the Aveyron gorges: a royal fortress, stone houses and a silence that feels truly medieval.
Jul 5, 2026
Una cittadella UNESCO firmata Vauban incastrata tra le vette catalane: vie in marmo rosa, bastioni percorribili e un borgo medievale ancora abitato.
Jul 5, 2026
Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert hides in the Hérault gorges: a Benedictine abbey, turquoise waters and a stage on the Way of Saint James.
Jul 5, 2026
Lagrasse is a medieval borgo in the Corbières with a Carolingian abbey, a humpback bridge and bold red wines waiting to be discovered.
Jul 5, 2026
Eus, perched beneath the Canigou in the Eastern Pyrenees, is France's sunniest municipality: golden stone, Catalan silence and 300 days of sun a year.
Jul 5, 2026
Saint-Cirq-Lapopie commands the Lot from a vertiginous cliff: artisan workshops, medieval houses and silence in the heart of the Quercy.
Jul 5, 2026
Conques guards a perfect Romanesque abbey and the treasure of Sainte-Foy among the hills of the Aveyron, far from the tourist crowds.
Jul 5, 2026
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is nestled between two cliffs with a star hanging in the void: fine ceramics, the Verdon and Provençal lavender.
Jul 5, 2026
Roussillon blazes red and orange amid the Luberon lavender fields: ochre quarries, incandescent façades and a real alternative to Gordes.
Jul 5, 2026