Ulcinj: Where Montenegro Meets Albania and the East

The other Montenegro

Ulcinj resembles no other city in Montenegro. Here the minarets outnumber the bell towers, the muezzin calls to prayer five times a day, coffee is drunk Turkish-style in copper cups, and the signs are often in Albanian before Montenegrin. At the southernmost tip of the coast, just a few kilometres from the Albanian border, Ulcinj is where the Adriatic changes character: from Croato-Venetian it becomes Levantine, and the landscape opens into long beaches, lagoons, and salt flats that recall North Africa more than the Balkans.

Getting there from Podgorica takes two hours by car. From Tivat, an hour and a half. In summer there are also frequent buses from Budva and Bar. The nearest airport is Podgorica, but Tivat works well too.

The old city: a fortress between sky and sea

Stari Grad (old city) of Ulcinj is a fortress perched on a rocky promontory jutting into the Adriatic. The walls, built by the Venetians on Illyrian foundations and later reinforced by the Ottomans, enclose a maze of stone alleyways where time seems to have stopped. Inside the walls you'll find:

- The Ethnographic Museum: housed in a Venetian tower, it tells the multi-ethnic history of the city.

- The church-mosque: a building that over the centuries has been a Catholic church, a mosque, and a church again — a perfect symbol of Ulcinj's fluid identity.

- Pirates' Square: according to legend, Cervantes was a prisoner here. The view from the northern bastion takes in the entire coast all the way to Albania.

Below the walls, Mala Plaža (Small Beach) is a crescent of dark sand nestled between the rocks, perfect for a swim after visiting the fortress.

Velika Plaža: thirteen kilometres of sand

Velika Plaža (Great Beach) is the real surprise: thirteen kilometres of fine golden sand stretching south to the mouth of the Bojana river and the Albanian border. It is one of the longest beaches on the Adriatic and, despite its size, remains surprisingly uncrowded. The constant wind makes it a paradise for kitesurfing — several schools offer courses and equipment rental along the beach.

At the southern end, Ada Bojana island is a triangle of sand at the river mouth, known for nudism and for fish restaurants built on stilts along the river. The fish is extremely fresh and the prices honest.

The salt flats and the flamingos

Solana Ulcinj is an area of disused salt flats that has transformed into one of the most important habitats for migratory birds on the Adriatic. Pink flamingos, pelicans, herons, and dozens of other species stop here during the spring and autumn migrations. A footpath encircles the salt flats and allows observation without disturbing the wildlife. Bring binoculars.

What to eat

The cuisine of Ulcinj reflects its border identity. Albanian, Turkish, and Montenegrin dishes often appear on the same menu:

Tavë kosi (baked lamb with yogurt), byrek (filo pastry filled with cheese or spinach), grilled fish with shopska salad (tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, onion, and grated cheese), and baklava to finish. Turkish coffee is a ritual: sip it slowly in the old city watching the sea. A full meal costs between ten and twenty euros.

When to go

From May to October, with preference for June and September. July–August are hot but the great beach absorbs the crowds without difficulty. For birdwatching, April–May and September–October are ideal. Ulcinj is the Montenegro no guidebook puts on its cover: it has neither the glamour of Sveti Stefan nor the majesty of Kotor, but it has a rough authenticity and a unique personality that rewards those who make it this far.