Sibiu: The City Whose Eyes Watch You from the Rooftops

A city that watches those who visit it

Look up as you stroll through Sibiu's old town and you will notice something unusual: dozens of eyes staring down at you from the rooftops. These are the famous eyelid-shaped windows (ochii Sibiului), dormers that have characterized Saxon rooftops for centuries. This architectural quirk has become the symbol of a city that, after being named European Capital of Culture in 2007, has managed to grow without losing itself.

What to see in Sibiu

The three historic squares

Sibiu's center unfolds around three interconnected squares. Piața Mare (Grand Square) is one of the largest in Transylvania, framed by the Brukenthal Palace — now an art museum with a collection ranging from Rubens to Cranach — and the Catholic church. Piața Mică (Small Square) is more intimate, crossed by the Bridge of Lies (Podul Minciunilor), Romania's first iron bridge (1859): legend has it that it collapses if anyone tells a lie upon it. Piața Huet is home to the monumental Evangelical Church, with its 6,002-pipe organ and Saxon funerary frescoes.

The Lower Town and the Passage of Stairs

Sibiu is divided into an Upper Town and a Lower Town, connected by picturesque stepped passages. The most evocative is the Passage of Stairs (Pasajul Scărilor), a covered stairway that emerges among the colored houses of the lower town, where craftspeople and merchants once lived. Here the pace is even slower, with workshops, hidden courtyards and the smell of freshly baked bread.

The ASTRA Museum

A few kilometers from the center, nestled in a forest on the shores of a lake, the ASTRA Ethnographic Museum is Romania's largest open-air museum. Over three hundred traditional buildings — peasant houses, wooden churches, mills, forges — have been relocated here from every region of the country. It is a journey into a vanishing rural Romania, and half a day is not enough.

What to eat

Sibiu is the gastronomic capital of Transylvania, and that is no exaggeration:

- Ciolan afumat — smoked pork knuckle with beans, a hearty and aromatic dish found in almost every trattoria

- Bulz ciobanesc — polenta stuffed with sheep's cheese and egg, cooked over embers, the shepherds' street food

- Ciorbă de perișoare — sour soup with meatballs, fresh herbs and sour cream

- Papanași — fried ricotta doughnuts topped with sour cream and blueberry jam

The Piața Cibin farmers' market is the best place for artisan cheeses, honey and cured meats. For a refined dinner, the Kulinarium restaurant offers reinterpreted Transylvanian cuisine.

How to get there

Sibiu has an international airport with direct flights from Munich, Vienna and London; from Italy, the easiest connection is via Vienna or Munich, or with Wizz Air to Cluj-Napoca (170 km) or Târgu Mureș (110 km). By train, Sibiu is connected to Brașov (2.5 hours) and Bucharest (5.5 hours). By car, the A1 motorway under construction will improve links, but the scenic road from Brașov through the Făgăraș mountains is already an experience in itself.

When to go

May to October is the best period. June and September offer mild weather and few visitors. In August, the International Theatre Festival transforms squares and courtyards into open-air stages — it is worth planning your trip around that week. Sibiu's Christmas market, in Piața Mare, is considered one of the finest in Eastern Europe: if you don't mind the cold, December is a magical option.

A base for Transylvania

Sibiu is perfect as a base for exploring the Saxon villages (Biertan, Viscri), the Transfăgărășan road — one of the most spectacular drives in the world — and the Făgăraș Mountains. An hour away lies the fortress of Alba Iulia, the heart of Romanian national identity.