Murradweg: from the Alps to the vineyards of Styria
The quiet, less international alternative to the overcrowded Austrian Danube. The Murradweg follows the Mur valley from the High Tauern Alps down to the wine hills of the south, with a gentle, steady descent, passing through Graz and landscapes few foreign cycle tourists know.
Foto: Nick Savchenko from Kiev, Ukraine (CC BY-SA 2.0) — Wikimedia Commons
When it comes to cycle touring in Austria, almost everyone thinks of the Danube cycle path: beautiful, very convenient and, by now, very crowded, with its ribbons of cyclists between Passau and Vienna. But Austria has other rivers and other valleys, and one in particular offers an equally rewarding experience without the crush: the Mur, in Styria. The Murradweg accompanies this river from its Alpine source down to the country's southern border, in a long, gentle descent that few foreign travellers have discovered.
From the Alps
The route begins high in the mountains, among the pastures and forests of the High Tauern, in the Salzburg Lungau, where the Mur rises as a torrent near Muhr, at the foot of the Sticklerhütte. The first kilometres cross the Lungau and then Upper Styria, a region of green valleys, ancient traditions and snug little towns; you reach Murau, a medieval town dominated by its castle and known for its beer. From here the valley gradually opens out and the river gains breadth, accompanying the cyclist through meadows, woods and small settlements where life flows to age-old rhythms.
Graz and the vineyards
The centre of gravity of the route is Graz, Austria's second city and the capital of Styria, a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its old town. It is worth stopping: the Schlossberg hill with its clock tower, the red roofs, the markets and the lively university atmosphere make it one of the most pleasant cities in the country, and yet off the great international tourist circuits. Beyond Graz, the Mur descends towards southern Styria, and here the landscape changes again: the hills begin, and with them the vineyards. You approach the wine region on the border with Slovenia, a land of wine roads, of buschenschank where you can taste local produce, and of orderly hills reminiscent of Tuscany. The Mur then continues eastwards, marking the border, until it leaves Austria.
The route
The beauty of the Murradweg is its downhill nature: you start high up and descend, which means the gradient is on average in your favour and the physical effort is modest, especially in the central and lower sections. There is no shortage of rolling stretches and the odd up-and-down, but on the whole it is a route within reach of anyone with a minimum of fitness, and ideal too for those travelling with luggage or on e-bikes. The surface is largely paved or on good compact gravel, well signposted, away from traffic for long stretches.
Getting there
To get there, Graz is the most convenient access point, with an airport and excellent rail connections; to reach the source area you combine regional trains and buses, many of which carry bicycles. The railway line that follows part of the valley makes it easy to break up the route or to return without pedalling back.
The best time is summer, in June, when the upper Alpine valley has finally shaken off the cold and the days are long, and above all September, a magical month for southern Styria: it is harvest time, the hills take on colour and the wineries are in ferment. Compared to the Danube, here even in peak season you ride in peace, meeting mostly Austrian cycle tourists; by choosing weekdays you avoid the few crowds that gather at weekends around Graz.
A practical tip: do not rush the southern part. The wine country of Styria deserves that you slow down, that you turn off onto a wine road, that you stop at a buschenschank to try a glass of Sauvignon or Welschriesling with a board of local produce. It is in these stops, more than in the miles, that the Murradweg gives its very best.
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Practical info
When is the best time to visit Murradweg?
The recommended time is June and September, when it is less crowded.
Where is Murradweg?
Murradweg is located in Mur valley, Styria, Austria.
