The Parenzana: Cycling a Ghost Railway Across Three Nations
A 130 km cycling route along a vanished narrow-gauge railway linking Italy, Slovenia and Croatia through vine-covered hills and timeless Istrian borghi.
The Parenzana was a narrow-gauge railway connecting Trieste to Poreč, in Istria, threading through a landscape of hills, vineyards and hilltop borghi. Closed in 1935, its route has since been transformed into a cycling path crossing three nations — Italy, Slovenia and Croatia — along a gentle, scenic corridor far from any traffic.
You set off from Trieste and within a few kilometres cross into Slovenia, near Koper. The track follows the contours of the old railway, with gradients that never grow excessive and tunnels carved into rock offering cool relief on warm days. The landscape is that of inland Istria: red earth, olive trees, dry-stone walls, small stone villages where time seems to have stopped.
The Slovenian stretch is the best maintained: smooth asphalt, clear signage, rest areas with drinking fountains. You pass through Koper, Izola and then climb inland through borghi like Grožnjan, perched on a spur with views across the hills. Tourism exists here but remains discreet: a farmhouse stay, a tavern, a winemaker selling malvasia from his doorstep.
Once across the Croatian border, the route grows more adventurous. The surface alternates between asphalt and gravel, signage becomes sporadic, yet the landscape compensates for every inconvenience. You descend toward Poreč through wooded valleys and lavender fields, with the sea appearing and vanishing between the hills. Arriving in Poreč — its Byzantine old town facing the Adriatic — is the final reward.
The full route is around 130 km and fits comfortably into two or three days. Variations abound: you can start from Muggia rather than Trieste, add detours along the coast, linger longer in the inland borghi. The best time is May–June or September, when the heat is manageable and Istria's colours are at their peak.
The Parenzana is the kind of cycling route that changes how you think about borders: as you pedal, you barely notice crossing from one country to the next, because the landscape is continuous, the earth is the same, and people greet you in the same language — the one spoken over shared wine and bread.
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Practical info
When is the best time to visit The Parenzana?
The recommended time is April, May, June, September and October, when it is less crowded.
Is The Parenzana crowded?
The Parenzana is a very quiet destination compared with the more touristy ones.
Where is The Parenzana?
The Parenzana is located in From Trieste to Poreč, Italy-Slovenia-Croatia.
