The Parenzana between Slovenia and Croatian Istria
A former Austro-Hungarian railway that once linked Trieste to Parenzo, now a greenway among the tunnels, viaducts and olive groves of inland Istria. Far from the crowded beaches, in the shoulder seasons it is almost deserted: a slow journey across three borders and an intact Mediterranean landscape.
Herbert Ortner, Vienna, Austria, CC BY 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons
Once upon a time a narrow-gauge little train, in the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, linked Trieste to Parenzo, snaking through Istria. It was called the Parenzana, it ran for only a few decades and was then dismantled, leaving behind a route of tunnels, bridges and viaducts suspended among the hills. Today that old railway has been reborn as a cross-border greenway, and it offers one of the most poetic ways to discover authentic Istria, the Istria of the interior, far from the besieged beaches of the coast.
Across three countries
The route crosses three realities: it starts from the area of Trieste and Koper, in Slovenia, descends along the short Slovenian coast, touching the beautiful Piran, a Venetian gem overlooking the sea, and nearby Portorož, then bends inland and enters Croatia. From here begins the most evocative part, the one that climbs and winds among the hill villages of inland Istria. You pass at the foot of Buje, cross the valley of the Dragonja river, reach the area of Grožnjan, a hilltop village of artists famous for its music festivals, and Motovun, the medieval town that dominates the Mirna valley from above, a land of truffles and vineyards.
Inland Istria
It is inland Istria that is the great surprise of this journey: centuries-old olive groves, rows of vines, oak woods where truffles are hunted, stone farmhouses and fortified villages that seem suspended in time. The Parenzana passes through several tunnels cut into the rock, some long and dark, and crosses valleys on viaducts that offer wide views over the countryside. The journey ends towards Parenzo, the ancient Parentium, with its extraordinary Byzantine Euphrasian Basilica, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the return to the sea.
The route
Being a former railway, the gradients stay gentle and steady, without violent pitches, but the itinerary as a whole rises from the coast towards the interior and then descends again, so a minimum of fitness helps. The surface is varied: some stretches are paved, many are gravel or packed dirt, and in some places the route is not perfectly continuous and has to be linked up on secondary roads. For this reason a bike with somewhat wider tyres, a gravel or trekking bike, is the most sensible choice, while for the dark tunnels a good light is essential. The effort is moderate and the experience is within reach of anyone who loves slow travel more than performance.
Getting there
To get there, Trieste is a convenient and well-connected hub from Italy, while on the Croatian side Parenzo and Istria are reachable by bus; Koper and Piran are excellent Slovenian bases. Local public transport helps in arranging the return, though it is worth checking in advance whether you can load the bike.
When to go
The ideal time is the shoulder seasons: May, when the Istrian countryside is in bloom and temperatures are perfect for cycling, and October, the month of the grape harvest and then of the truffle season, with soft light and warm colours. In these months inland Istria is almost deserted: tourists concentrate on the coast in the warm months, while the hill villages stay quiet and welcoming. In this way you avoid the summer heat, harsh on the exposed climbs, and enjoy an intimate atmosphere and more reasonable prices.
A practical tip: always carry a powerful light and a spare to tackle the tunnels safely, some of which are long and completely dark even in broad daylight. And leave yourself time for stops in the villages: a plate of truffle pasta in Motovun, a glass of Istrian Malvasia, a stroll through the alleys of Grožnjan are worth as much as the kilometres you cover.
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Practical info
When is the best time to visit The Parenzana between Slovenia and Croatian Istria?
The recommended time is May and October, when it is less crowded.
Where is The Parenzana between Slovenia and Croatian Istria?
The Parenzana between Slovenia and Croatian Istria is located in From Trieste/Koper to Parenzo (Poreč).
