Moulay Idriss Zerhoun: Morocco's Sacred City That Chefchaouen Left Behind

Chefchaouen has become one of Morocco's most photographed destinations — its blue alleys appear in millions of posts. But 60 kilometres from the Roman ruins of Volubilis, on two hills that face each other like the horns of a bull, lies a sacred city that tourism has not yet reached: Moulay Idriss Zerhoun.

The city of the founder

Moulay Idriss I was the founder of Morocco's first Muslim dynasty in 788 AD. His mausoleum — the most sacred shrine in the country — sits at the heart of the medina. Until 2005, non-Muslims were not even permitted to spend the night in the city. Today you can sleep in a handful of riads, but access to the mausoleum remains closed to non-Muslims. You can, however, admire from outside the cylindrical minaret tower — the only one in Morocco — and the monumental gateway.

The medina

The medina is a labyrinth of white alleys climbing and descending between the two hills. The houses are low, cats sleep on the low walls, women hang laundry between one terrace and the next. There are no shops for tourists — only neighbourhood stores, a communal bakery where bread arrives on wooden trays, a Saturday market selling olives, dates and sheep.

The olive oil and the landscape

The countryside around Moulay Idriss is covered in olive groves and wheat fields. Traditional oil presses (maasra) produce a dense, green oil. The Roman ruins of Volubilis are 5 kilometres away on foot — reached along a dirt track through the hills, with views that need no caption.

Getting there

From Meknes: grand taxi (30 min) or bus. From Fez: 1.5 hours. Guesthouses are few and simple — book ahead. Best time: March–May and September–November. In August, the moussem (annual pilgrimage) draws thousands of Moroccans.