Lake Vico and the Monti Cimini: a loop among beech woods and nature reserve
In the heart of the Tuscia around Viterbo, Lake Vico is the most intact volcanic basin in Lazio, protected by a nature reserve and ringed by beech and chestnut woods. Far from the more touristy lakes, it offers silence, shady trails and clean waters not far from Rome.
Foto: Dino Michelini (CC BY 3.0) — Wikimedia Commons
Lake Vico remains one of the best-kept secrets of Lazio. Born inside an ancient volcanic crater at the foot of the Monti Cimini, it is surrounded by a Nature Reserve that has held back development: no rows of parasols, no crowded lakefront, but reed beds, woods and a light that changes with the hours. While visitors concentrate on the lakes of Bracciano or Bolsena, here you often walk alone, accompanied only by the calls of the water birds.
The loop trail
The natural starting point is the village of Caprarola, famous for the sumptuous Villa Farnese, a Renaissance masterpiece that deserves a visit before or after the hike. From here you drop down towards the lake following the signs for the Lago di Vico Nature Reserve. The loop trail that circles the sheet of water is the best way to grasp its character: flat stretches along the shore alternate with reed beds that host herons and grebes, and clearings planted with hazelnut groves, the great agricultural vocation of this area.
Along the way you reach the north shore, wilder and wetter, where the reserve protects an area of great natural value. On the slope rising towards the Beech Wood of Monte Venere you find one of the most surprising features of the place: a depressed beech wood, that is, a wood of beech trees growing at unusually low elevations thanks to the cool, humid microclimate of the crater, a phenomenon that contributed to the area being recognised among the European beech forest sites protected by UNESCO. Climbing towards Monte Venere, the height reflected in the lake, rewards you with views from above over the entire basin.
The village of Ronciglione, on the other side, ideally rounds off the picture with its historic centre, its fountains and its peaceful atmosphere. It is also a good base for those wanting to split the circuit over two days, giving time both to the walk and to the villages.
The Monti Cimini
Those with more time can widen their view to the whole Cimini district. Monte Cimino, a little to the north, is the highest height of this ancient volcanic system and is covered by a centuries-old beech wood crossed by scenic paths; at its summit stands the famous Pietra Sospesa, an enormous balanced boulder that has always fed local legends. The nearby villages too, such as Soriano nel Cimino and Vitorchiano, with their walls and medieval architecture, deserve a detour and complete the portrait of an inland Tuscia that lives on woods, stone and rural traditions.
Getting there
Getting there is easy by car: from Rome's ring road you take the Via Cassia or the motorway towards Viterbo, reaching Caprarola and Ronciglione in a little over an hour. By public transport you can reach Viterbo by train and continue with local buses towards the Cimini villages, but to go around the lake and take in the reserve's trails the car remains the most convenient solution. Once on site, you move on foot or by bike along the farm roads and waymarked tracks.
When to go
The best time is spring, between April and May, and the October autumn. In spring the woods fill with tender green and blooms, the days are mild and the crater's humidity keeps the air cool even when the plain begins to warm. In October the beech and chestnut woods turn red and gold, and it is the season of chestnuts and hazelnuts. These are months that avoid both the summer heat and the flow, modest in any case, of the few bathers of July and August: in the shoulder seasons the reserve is almost deserted and the trails all for those who walk.
A practical tip: set off early in the morning, especially on the north shore, where the mist rising from the lake at dawn creates unrepeatable atmospheres and where the water birds are most active. Bring binoculars if you love birdwatching, waterproof shoes for the damp stretches near the reed beds, and leave room in your backpack for local produce: the Cimini hazelnuts and the chestnut-based dishes are the tastiest way to take home a piece of this still-authentic Tuscia.
Practical guides for Como
Practical info
When is the best time to visit Lake Vico and the Monti Cimini?
The recommended time is April, May and October, when it is less crowded.
Where is Lake Vico and the Monti Cimini?
Lake Vico and the Monti Cimini is located in Tuscia, Lazio.
